Pommes Anna

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Pommes Anna represents one of the supreme achievements of French potato cookery — a golden, crisp-shelled cylinder of thinly sliced potatoes bound by nothing but clarified butter and their own starch. Created in the 1870s, reputedly by chef Adolphe Dugléré at the Café Anglais for the courtesan Anna Deslions, this dish demands precision at every stage. Choose firm, waxy-fleshed potatoes (Charlotte or BF-15) and slice them uniformly at 2-3mm on a mandoline — consistency is non-negotiable, as uneven slices create air pockets that prevent cohesion. The traditional copper pommes Anna mould conducts heat supremely, but a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet works admirably. Brush the base and sides liberally with clarified butter, then arrange the first layer in a tight overlapping spiral from the centre outward — this becomes the presentation face, so precision here defines the dish. Season each layer with fine salt and white pepper, drizzle clarified butter generously (you will use 150-200g total for 1kg potatoes), and continue layering until the mould is filled, pressing firmly every 3-4 layers with a flat lid. Cook on the stovetop over medium heat for 8-10 minutes until you hear a steady sizzle confirming the base is crisping, then transfer to a 200°C oven for 45-50 minutes. Press down firmly with a weight at the 20-minute mark. The finished cake should release cleanly when inverted, presenting a mahogany-gold dome with each potato slice distinct yet fused into a unified whole. Rest 5 minutes before unmoulding — the starch continues to set. The interior should be creamy and yielding, the exterior shatteringly crisp. This is the potato dish against which all others are measured.

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