Potage Saint-Germain — Classical Split Pea Soup

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Potage Saint-Germain is the definitive French pea soup — a vibrant green purée of split or fresh peas that carries the name of the Parisian suburb famous for its market gardens. In its highest expression, this potage is made with fresh garden peas in season, but the year-round version uses dried split peas, rehydrated and simmered with aromatics into a thick, nourishing potage that has sustained French households for centuries. For the dried pea version: soak 400g of green split peas in cold water for 2-4 hours (or overnight), then drain. In a heavy pot, sweat 100g of diced onion, 50g of diced carrot, and 50g of diced celery in 40g of butter until soft, about 8 minutes. Add the peas, 1.5 litres of light ham or chicken stock, a bouquet garni (thyme, bay, parsley stalks), and a ham hock or piece of smoked bacon — this smoky, porcine element is traditional and essential to the soup's character. Bring to a simmer, skim thoroughly, and cook gently for 60-90 minutes until the peas have completely dissolved. Remove the ham hock and bouquet garni, then purée through a moulin-légumes or blender. The consistency should be thick — Saint-Germain is a potage lié (bound soup), heartier than a crème or velouté — but it should still flow from the ladle without plopping. Adjust with stock if necessary. Finish with 40g of cold butter and season with salt (carefully — the ham contributes salt) and pepper. The classical garnish is small croûtons fried in butter and, if available, a scattering of fresh mint leaves. For the fresh pea version (potage Saint-Germain aux petits pois frais), blanch 800g of shelled peas briefly, purée with a lighter stock, and finish with cream — the result is a stunningly vivid green, the very colour of spring.

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