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Quenelles de Brochet Sauce Nantua: The Lyonnaise Dumpling Art

Lyon

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I

Origin

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II

Description

Quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings) in sauce Nantua (crayfish butter sauce) is the other pillar of Lyonnaise fine dining — Mère Brazier's eternal menu companion to poularde demi-deuil. Pike flesh is pounded to a paste (panade), enriched with eggs, butter, and cream, shaped into oval dumplings, and poached in stock. They are then napped in sauce Nantua — a béchamel enriched with crayfish butter (made by pounding crayfish shells with butter to extract the carotenoid-rich fat) and finished with cream. The result is impossibly light, ethereally smooth, and deeply flavoured.

III

The Thread

—Gefilte fish in Jewish Ashkenazi tradition (fish forcemeat formed into dumplings and poached — the structural parallel is direct), Chinese fish balls (fish paste shaped and poached), Japanese hanpen (
IV

Flavour Context

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