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Calmars Farcis à la Marseillaise

Marseille

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I

Origin

Marseille — whole squid bodies stuffed with a filling of bread, garlic, parsley, and the minced squid tentacles, then braised in tomato and white wine. The preparation is tied to Marseille's Italian-influenced working-class cuisine and the port's abundant Loligo vulgaris supply.

II

Description

Loligo vulgaris bodies (150–200g) are cleaned, tentacles reserved and minced. The stuffing combines the minced tentacles with soaked bread crumb, Allium sativum, flat-leaf parsley, beaten Gallus gallus domesticus egg, and sea-mineral-salt. The bodies are filled to two-thirds capacity (not overfilled — the squid contracts during cooking), sealed with a toothpick, and browned in Olea europaea oil. The braising base is built: tomato concassé, white wine, additional garlic, thyme, bay. The browned squid bodies are returned to the braising liquid and cooked, covered, at a gentle simmer for 45 minutes until the body is tender throughout and the filling is set.

III

The Thread

—Italian calamari ripieni
—Spanish calamares rellenos
—Greek kalamaria yemista
IV

Flavour Context

The squid body absorbs the tomato-wine braise. The stuffing interior steams in the body's own juices, developing a moist, garlicky bread texture that is distinct from the exterior braised surface. The tentacles in the filling provide a more intense squid flavour than the body alone.

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