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Mère Fillioux: Five Dishes, Fifty Years, Total Mastery

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Origin

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Description

Françoise Fillioux (born 1865) operated le Bistrot Fillioux in Lyon with an all-female kitchen. She is famous for one declaration that contains more culinary philosophy than entire cookbooks: "I know how to cook five dishes, and I will never make any others." She cooked those five dishes — volaille demi-deuil, truffle and cream soup, poached chicken, artichoke hearts stuffed with foie gras, and lobster with shallots — for her entire career. She trained Eugénie Brazier. She never wrote a single word about cooking.

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The Thread

—Jiro Ono (sushi — same radical narrowing of scope), the dosa master of any South Indian street stall (one preparation, perfected over decades), the ramen masters of Tokyo (single-dish restaurants wher
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