Apfelstrudel

Vienna, Austria — the Apfelstrudel technique entered Austrian cuisine from the Ottoman-influenced cuisines of the Hungarian and Bohemian territories under Habsburg rule; the first recorded strudel recipe (a dairy strudel, not apple) is from 1696 in the Vienna Hofbibliothek; Apfelstrudel became the canonical version in Vienna's coffeehouse culture from the 18th century

The defining pastry of Vienna's café culture — an impossibly thin sheet of hand-stretched strudel dough (Strudelteig) wrapped around a filling of thinly sliced sour apples, raisins, cinnamon, sugar, and buttered breadcrumbs, baked until the pastry is shatteringly crisp and the filling is soft and fragrant — requires the specific technique of stretching the dough over a cloth-covered table until it is thin enough to read a newspaper through. Strudelteig is not puff pastry, not filo (though filo can substitute), and not shortcrust; it is a simple dough of flour, warm water, oil, and salt that develops gluten strongly through vigorous kneading, then relaxes to an extraordinary pliability after resting. The breadcrumbs are a critical element — not filler, they absorb excess apple moisture and prevent the pastry from becoming soggy.

The Viennese institution: served at the Café Landtmann, Café Central, or Café Sacher at Kaffee und Kuchen time; with vanilla sauce and a Wiener Melange (Viennese coffee with milk foam); at Austrian Christmas markets; the smell of cinnamon-apple baking is inseparable from Vienna in winter