LAULAU

Hawaiian

Chunks of pork — traditionally belly or shoulder, bone-in and well-marbled — and often butterfish (black cod, Anoplopoma fimbria) are placed on a bed of luʻau leaves. The leaves are folded over the meat, and the bundle is wrapped in ti leaves to form a waterproof parcel. Traditionally these parcels are cooked in the imu alongside the kalua pig and taro, where they sit for six to eight hours in pressurised steam. What happens inside the parcel during those hours is alchemy. The taro leaves break down completely, collapsing from recognisable leaves into a dark, silky, spinach-like substance that melds with the rendered pork fat. The butterfish, already oil-rich, flakes into the green matrix, adding marine richness. The pork fat renders and bastes everything from within. The ti leaf exterior remains intact, holding all of this together. When the parcel is opened at the table, the contents are no longer identifiable as separate ingredients. They have become laulau — a unified preparation that is simultaneously meat, vegetable, sauce, and fat.

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