Soto: The Indonesian Soup Taxonomy

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Soto is to Indonesia what phở is to Vietnam and ramen is to Japan — the ubiquitous, regionally varied, deeply personal soup tradition that every city claims to make best. The word *soto* derives from the Hokkien Chinese *cau-do* (草肚, "mixed intestines soup"), reflecting the Chinese-Indonesian culinary exchange that produced many of Indonesia's most beloved preparations. But soto has diverged so far from its Chinese origins that it is entirely Indonesian. There are at least 30 named regional sotos, each with its own broth base, aromatics, protein, garnish, and serving style. Wongso calls soto "the dish that maps Indonesia" — if you tell an Indonesian which soto you eat, they know where you are from.

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