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Orecchiette Cime di Rapa con Alici di Scoglio

Puglia

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I

Origin

Puglia

II

Description

The canonical Pugliese pasta preparation — hand-pressed orecchiette (little ears) cooked together with blanched cime di rapa (turnip tops) in the same water, dressed with a sauce of garlic, anchovy and olive oil, with a scattering of breadcrumbs (pangrattato) toasted in olive oil. The anchovy dissolves completely into the garlic oil, acting as an invisible umami amplifier for the bitter greens.

III

The Thread

—Pasta cooked with bitter greens in the same liquid — the Roman version uses skate ray broth; both cook vegetable and pasta in the same liquid Roman
—Pasta cooked with bitter greens (escarole) — the Campanian version adds olives and capers to the same bitter-green-pasta structure Neapolitan
—Pasta with broccoli, anchovy and toasted breadcrumbs — the Sicilian version of the same anchovy-and-green-breadcrumb preparation Sicilian
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Flavour Context

Bitter, briny, garlicky and breadcrumb-crunchy; the anchovy gives depth without fishiness; olive oil gives richness; the greens' bitterness is the defining flavour — one of Italy's greatest pasta preparations

Pillars V — VII
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