Riso, Patate e Cozze alla Pugliese — Layered Rice, Potato and Mussel Bake

Bari and the Taranto coast, Puglia — tiella barese is the emblem of Bari's cucina. The preparation reflects the Adriatic mussel aquaculture tradition of the Taranto lagoon (the Mar Piccolo), which has produced mussels since ancient Greek times. The terracotta tiella is the essential vessel — it gives the dish its name.

Riso, patate e cozze (or tiella barese — named for the terracotta tiella dish) is the defining baked preparation of Bari and the northern Puglia coast: alternating layers of raw Arborio rice, thinly sliced raw potato, and fresh mussels (cozze Tarantine, the mussels of the Taranto lagoon) in their half-shell, seasoned with abundant Pecorino, tomato, onion, parsley, and olive oil, then baked covered until the rice has absorbed all the mussel liquor and the potato beneath has cooked and taken on the mussel's brininess. It is cooked and served in the same terracotta tiella. The preparation requires fresh live mussels — their liquor is what cooks the rice. No other liquid is added.

Riso, patate e cozze from the tiella is a preparation of extraordinary unity — the rice has absorbed the mussel liquor and taken on a briny sweetness; the potato beneath is soft and infused; each mussel in its half-shell sits in its own pocket of seasoned rice. The Pecorino and olive oil tie everything together. To eat it in Bari with a glass of Primitivo is to understand the entire southern Italian kitchen in a single dish.