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Fagioli all'Uccelletto — White Beans in Sage and Tomato

Florence, Tuscany

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I

Origin

Florence and Tuscany generally — fagioli all'uccelletto is documented in Florentine cooking from the 16th century. The Tuscans are called 'mangiafagioli' (bean-eaters) by other Italians — the bean is the most characteristically Tuscan ingredient.

II

Description

Fagioli all'uccelletto (beans in the style of small birds — prepared the same way game birds were once served) is the definitive cooked bean preparation of Tuscany: dried cannellini beans cooked until tender, then finished in a pan with olive oil, garlic, sage, and a small amount of tomato (whole peeled San Marzano or a splash of passata). The result is neither a soup nor a stew — the beans are coated in a film of tomato-and-sage-infused olive oil but retain their integrity. It is served as a contorno alongside grilled sausages, bistecca, or arista, and also as a standalone primo. It is the definitive example of the Tuscan gift for transforming a humble ingredient into something of great dignity.

III

The Thread

—White beans slowly cooked with pork fat and aromatic ingredients until the beans absorb the surrounding flavours while retaining their texture — the French cassoulet and the Tuscan fagioli all'uccelletto share the principle of finishing cooked white beans in a flavoured fat medium to achieve full integration French
—White beans cooked in an aromatic olive oil base with a small amount of tomato or shellfish — the Asturian fabas and Tuscan cannellini all'uccelletto share the principle of finishing pre-cooked white beans in olive oil and aromatic base for full flavour integration Spanish
IV

Flavour Context

Fagioli all'uccelletto has the simplicity of a great principle: the bean's natural sweetness and starchiness, coated in sage-and-garlic-infused olive oil, brightened by a small amount of tomato acidity, seasoned with salt. Each bean is flavourful in itself. The dish tastes of nothing other than itself — and that is its virtue.

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