Schiacciata all'Uva Toscana

Tuscany

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The working recipe — the Market List, the Method, and where it lives or dies

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Origin

Tuscany (Chianti region, September-October only)

Description

Tuscany's September harvest flatbread: a yeasted, oil-enriched flatbread dough pressed into two layers in a baking tray with Sangiovese or Canaiolo wine grapes (or small black grapes, seeds and all) pressed into both layers, drizzled generously with olive oil, scattered with sugar, rosemary, and black pepper, then baked until the bread is golden, the grapes have burst and caramelised, and the sugar has formed a golden crust. Made only during the September-October vendemmia (grape harvest) when the small wine grapes are available. The seed bitterness from the crushed grapes is the dish's defining note.

III

The Thread

—Both are yeasted flatbreads made specifically during the grape harvest season with fresh wine grapes pressed into the dough — Provençale uses white grapes and orange blossom water in a thicker format, Tuscan uses black wine grapes with rosemary in a thinner pressed format, both celebrating the harvest through this temporary seasonal bread Provençal

—Both are flatbreads where a seasonal fruit ingredient is pressed directly into or onto the dough — Catalan uses fresh tomato rubbed into toast, Tuscan uses whole grapes embedded in dough layers, both from the Mediterranean tradition of celebrating summer fruit through bread Catalan

Flavour Context

Golden, oil-rich, sweet from caramelised grapes and sugar, with the bitter note of grape seeds and the resinous freshness of rosemary — exclusively September, entirely unreproducible

Pillars V — VII

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