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Japanese Okonomi-style Free Cooking Wabi-Sabi and Imperfection

‹ Overview & Cultural Context

I

Origin

Japan — wabi-sabi as the aesthetic philosophy underlying Japanese cuisine; okonomi (as you like it) principle

II

Description

Wabi-sabi (侘寂) — the Japanese aesthetic philosophy of finding beauty in imperfection, impermanence, and incompleteness — has direct culinary expression in several Japanese food traditions. Wabi is the beauty of simplicity and modest restraint; sabi is the beauty of things touched by time and wear. In food culture, wabi-sabi appears in: the preference for asymmetrical and irregular ceramics for food presentation (a perfectly round bowl is less interesting than one with a slight warp or uneven glaze); the appreciation of foods that mark the passage of time (pickles, aged sake, miso that has darkened with age); the cooking philosophy that values what is at hand (the mottainai concept — using everything, wasting nothing); and the 'okonomi' style of improvised cooking using whatever is available. Okonomi-style cooking: the literal meaning of 'okonomi' is 'as you like it' — the fundamental approach of using seasonal, available ingredients and preparing them according to the cook's judgement rather than following a precise recipe. Okonomiyaki as a food embodies this — the basic recipe accommodates nearly any ingredient and the cook adjusts according to preference and availability. The wabi-sabi dimension of Japanese food evaluation: a slightly imperfect wagashi that nonetheless tastes extraordinary is more highly valued in tea ceremony philosophy than a visually perfect wagashi with mediocre flavour. The Japanese meal that uses every part of an ingredient — the fish head, the scales (dried for stock), the bones (for dashi), the flesh (for the main dish) — is the wabi-sabi, mottainai expression of complete respect.

III

The Thread

—Italian cucina povera and Japanese wabi-sabi share the philosophy of excellence through simplicity and restraint; both find beauty and satisfaction in the humble and imperfect rather than the elaborate and expensive Italian
—New Nordic cuisine's aesthetic of restraint, imperfect plating, and seasonal specificity has clear philosophical parallels with Japanese wabi-sabi; René Redzepi has cited wabi-sabi as an influence Scandinavian
—Chinese market-to-table improvised cooking philosophy parallels Japanese okonomi — both value the cook's skill in working with available ingredients over following prescribed recipes Chinese
IV

Flavour Context

Wabi-sabi has no single flavour but it has a taste — the taste of simplicity mastered; the flavour of an old cast iron pan's seasoning accumulated over decades; the taste of miso that has aged through three winters; the flavour of the humble, perfectly cooked bowl of rice eaten alone; these are the wabi-sabi flavours — not impressive, not complex, but deeply true

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