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Japanese · V The Canonical Dishes · Kaiseki

Japanese Sunomono Vinegared Salad and the Sanbaizu Three-Vinegar Dressing Tradition

Japan

‹ Kaiseki

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I

Origin

Ancient Japan — vinegared preparations recorded from Heian court cuisine; sanbaizu formalised as named dressing during Edo period; kaiseki sunomono course established as standard during tea kaiseki development (16th–17th century)

II

Description

Sunomono (酢の物, 'vinegar things') — vinegared salads and dressed preparations — is one of Japanese cuisine's most elegant side dish categories, appearing in both kaiseki as a palate-refreshing course (typically following a rich dish) and in everyday home cooking as a light accompaniment to rice. The defining technical element is the sanbaizu (三杯酢, 'three-cup vinegar') dressing — a balanced combination of rice vinegar, soy sauce, and mirin in specific ratios that create a harmoniously sweet-sour-savory dressing without any single element overwhelming. The name 'sanbaizu' historically referred to equal measures of the three components ('three cups'), though modern calibration adjusts ratios to accommodate different ingredients. Distinct from sanbaizu are nijiri (二杯酢, 'two-cup' — vinegar and soy only, no mirin, sharper) and tosazu (土佐酢, 'Tosa vinegar' — sanbaizu with katsuobushi infused, adding umami depth). Sunomono ingredients follow seasonal logic: spring cucumber and wakame (fresh, light, delicate); summer octopus with cucumber; autumn crab with daikon; winter orange and daikon namasu. The preparation technique is critical — vegetables for sunomono are typically lightly salted first, then squeezed to remove excess moisture (shio-momi, 塩揉み), before dressing; this concentrates flavour and prevents the dressing from being diluted by vegetable moisture. The final texture should be yielding but not limp — vegetables that have been correctly salted-and-squeezed hold their shape while absorbing the dressing.

III

The Thread

—Functional parallel — both are vinegar-dressed vegetables as side dishes; Korean namul uses sesame oil as a second fat element typically absent from Japanese sunomono Korean
—Structural parallel — cold dressed salads with vinegar, soy, and sesame; Chinese versions typically include chilli and sesame oil for a more robust, spicier profile than Japanese sunomono Chinese
—Flavour principle parallel — both dress delicate ingredients (thin-sliced fish/meat, or vegetables) with acid and umami elements in minimal preparation; carpaccio's simplicity parallels sunomono's restraint Italian
IV

Flavour Context

Bright, clean, sweet-tart; rice vinegar's mildness prevents harshness; mirin's sweetness bridges vinegar and soy; soy's umami grounds the acidity; the result is refreshing and palate-cleansing, light and delicate

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