Shikoku Pilgrimage Food Culture and Ohenro Eating Traditions

Shikoku, Japan — four-prefecture island; Sanuki udon tradition from Heian period; Kochi food culture from Tosa domain era

Shikoku — the smallest of Japan's four main islands — houses the 88-temple pilgrimage circuit (Shikoku Henro or Ohenro) established by the Buddhist monk Kukai (posthumously Kobo Daishi) in the 9th century. The 1,200-kilometre walking circuit connecting 88 temples across four prefectures (Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, Kagawa) has sustained a distinct pilgrimage food culture for over 1,000 years: settai (the practice of locals offering free food, drink, and lodging to walking pilgrims as a karmic practice) means the pilgrimage trail is one of the few places in modern Japan where the ancient culture of food gift-giving as spiritual practice remains functionally alive. Kochi prefecture, occupying Shikoku's southern coast, is celebrated for its extraordinary produce: yuzu citrus (Kochi grows the majority of Japan's yuzu crop), katsuo (bonito from the Pacific), Shimanto River food culture (ayu sweetfish, freshwater shrimp), and Harimayabashi beef. Kagawa prefecture is the udon heartland — Sanuki udon, made with Sanuki wheat and Seto Inland Sea salt, simmered in iriko (dried sardine) dashi, is perhaps Japan's most deeply localised noodle culture. Ehime produces Iyokan citrus and mikan mandarins and has a distinct fish-and-citrus coastal cuisine. The food of Shikoku's pilgrimage culture includes: tosa-agemono (Kochi-style deep-fried preparations), katsuo no tataki served with yuzu and ginger, sanuki udon eaten standing in small shops, and botamochi (rice and sweet bean cakes) offered at temple gates.

Varies by prefecture: clean, chewy-savoury (Sanuki udon); bold, citrus-fish (Kochi katsuo-yuzu); sweet-citrus coastal (Ehime); mountain-herb (Tokushima)