The Japanese Koji Master Who Sleeps in the Fermentation Room · The Japanese Canon

I

Origin

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II

Description

Koji (Aspergillus oryzae) — the mould that makes sake, miso, soy sauce, mirin, and rice vinegar possible — is Japan's national microorganism (literally: it was designated kokukin, "national fungus," in 2006). The koji-making process for premium sake and miso requires a human presence in the koji muro (fermentation room) for 48 continuous hours. The koji master (toji in sake brewing, or the miso maker) sleeps on a futon in the room, waking every 2–3 hours to check temperature, humidity, and the progress of the mould's growth on the steamed rice. The temperature must stay between 28–42°C, and the koji master adjusts it by turning the rice, opening or closing vents, and adding or removing insulating cloths. There is no automation. The koji master's body — sleeping, waking, checking, adjusting — is the thermostat.

III

The Thread

—Chinese qu (the Chinese equivalent of koji — mould-based fermentation starter for baijiu, soy sauce, and vinegar), Indonesian tempeh (Rhizopus oligosporus — a different mould performing a similar tran

IV

Flavour Context

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Pillars V — VII

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