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Japanese · III The Pantry · Fish And Seafood

Sanma Pacific Saury Autumn Emblematic Fish

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I

Origin

Japan — Hokkaido and Tohoku Pacific coast autumn migration; Hokkaido port of Kushiro and Miyagi's Kesennuma are famous sanma landing cities

II

Description

Sanma (Pacific saury, Cololabis saira) is Japan's most emblematic autumn fish — a sleek, silver, oily fish of 30–40cm that migrates south along the Pacific coast from Hokkaido each autumn, growing fat on the cold northern waters. Its arrival marks the transition to cooler weather, and sanma shio-yaki (salt-grilled Pacific saury) is one of Japan's most celebrated seasonal dishes, sold at neighbourhood grills and featured on restaurant menus that have been anticipating its arrival for months. The fish has a short peak window — September and October — when fat content is highest. Beyond shio-yaki, sanma is used for sashimi (in the first weeks when the fat is highest), kabayaki (grilled in teriyaki style), simmered in miso, and as sanma-zushi pressed sushi.

III

The Thread

—Both sanma and Spanish sardines are oily, fatty, silver-skinned fish grilled whole over high heat with salt — emblematic summer-to-autumn seasonal eating experiences in their respective cultures Spanish
—The cultural celebration of the oily fish season through charcoal whole-grilling with minimal seasoning parallels between Japanese sanma autumn ritual and Portuguese sardine festivals Portuguese
IV

Flavour Context

Rich, oily, savoury fish with sweet fat-laden flesh, slight bitter organ note, smoky charcoal crust, bright sudachi acidity cutting the richness

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