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I

Origin

Ashkenazi Jewish communities of Poland and Germany — the earliest kugels were dumplings; the noodle version developed in the 13th century; yerushalmi kugel is a Jerusalem hasidic tradition from the 18th century

II

Description

Ashkenazi Jewish kugel is a baked pudding — most commonly made with egg noodles (lokshen kugel) or potatoes (potato kugel) — that exists on a spectrum from purely savoury (onion-schmaltz-pepper) to sweet (raisins, cinnamon, sour cream). The noodle kugel is the more divisive: Jerusalem kugel (yerushalmi kugel) is sweetened with caramelised black pepper and sugar — a combination that sounds paradoxical and tastes transcendent. The defining technique is the caramelised noodle crust: the rendered fat or oil coating the pan caramelises the outer noodles during baking into a dark, almost brittle crust that contrasts with the soft, custardy interior. Kugel is Shabbat and holiday food, served at room temperature as a side dish.

III

The Thread

—The noodle-custard bake parallels Italian pasta al forno and Greek pastitsio; the potato version echoes Swedish Janssons frestelse and French gratin dauphinois; the caramelised-sugar-black-pepper combination of yerushalmi kugel has no direct global parallel
IV

Flavour Context

Served as a Shabbat side dish alongside roast chicken; also at Rosh Hashanah; the sweet versions with raisins pair with the holiday honey theme; savory versions pair with schmaltz and fried onion; always served at room temperature

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