Barbacoa de borrego (lamb barbacoa, Hidalgo)

The working recipe — the Market List, the Method, and where it lives or dies

Origin

Hidalgo, Mexico — specifically Actopan and Pachuca; also associated with Texcoco and Estado de Mexico; the most iconic Sunday food of central Mexico

Description

Barbacoa de borrego (sheep/lamb barbacoa) is the canonical weekend barbacoa of Hidalgo and Mexico City — whole lamb or sheep heads, limbs, and organs wrapped in maguey leaves and pit-cooked overnight (10–12 hours) at low subterranean heat. The result is extraordinarily tender, flavourful meat with no added spices — the maguey leaves and slow underground heat do all the flavouring. Served Sunday mornings with consomé de barbacoa, salsa borracha, cilantro, onion, and fresh tortillas.

III

The Thread

—Hawaiian kalua pig (imu pit-cooked pork)

—Argentinian asado al hoyo (pit-roasted beef)

—South African potjie (sealed slow-cooked meat)

Flavour Context

Tender, deeply savory, lamb-rich, subtly floral from maguey — one of Mexico's most complex flavour profiles achieved through entirely natural technique

Pillars V — VII

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