Tacos al pastor — the Lebanese-Mexican fusion

Mexico City, Mexico, via Puebla. Lebanese and Syrian immigrants arriving in the early 20th century introduced the shawarma/döner technique; the Mexican adaptation developed in Mexico Citys Colonia Santa María la Ribera neighbourhood.

Tacos al pastor (shepherd style tacos) is one of the great examples of immigrant food fusion in world cuisine — the direct descendant of Lebanese shawarma, brought to Mexico by Lebanese immigrants who arrived in the early 20th century. The technique is identical to shawarma: marinated pork is stacked in thin layers on a vertical rotating spit (trompo — the top), rotated continuously in front of a heat source, and sliced to order with a long knife as the exterior caramelises. The Mexican adaptation replaced lamb with pork (the dominant meat of Mexico), substituted the Middle Eastern spice mixture with achiote paste, dried chiles (guajillo, ancho, chipotle), and pineapple, and replaced pita with corn tortilla. The trompo technique: thin-sliced pork shoulder is marinated in achiote-chile-citrus paste for 12–24 hours, then stacked in layers on the vertical spit with a pineapple at the top (which continuously bastes the meat with acidic juice as it cooks) and a chile or tomato at the bottom. The meat rotates before a high heat source — traditionally charcoal, now commonly gas burner — and is sliced in thin shavings directly onto tortillas, each portion finishing with a slice of caramelised pineapple cut from the top.

Al pastor has a distinctive combination of flavours: smoky achiote-chile-marinated pork, caramelised exterior from the rotating heat, sweet-acid pineapple, and the fragrance of cilantro and white onion — simultaneously smoky, sweet, sour, and savoury.