Tlayuda (Oaxacan — Large Crisp Tortilla with Tasajo and Quesillo)

The tlayuda is Oaxaca's most iconic street food: a large, partially dried corn tortilla griddled until crisp at the edges but still slightly flexible at the centre, topped with a smear of refried black beans, Oaxacan quesillo (string cheese), and any combination of tasajo (thinly sliced dried beef), chorizo, or chapulines (toasted grasshoppers). The tortilla itself is the technical foundation. Tlayuda tortillas are larger than standard corn tortillas — typically 30 to 40 centimetres across — and are made from masa that is slightly thicker and less hydrated than everyday tortillas. They are cooked first on a comal, then moved off the direct heat and allowed to dry partially until they take on a leathery, semi-rigid texture. This drying stage distinguishes the tlayuda from a simple corn tortilla. Beans are Oaxacan black beans, slow-cooked until very soft, then fried in lard (or black bean paste, pasta de frijoles negros) until spreadable. The paste is applied generously across the entire surface of the tlayuda, acting as both flavour and structural adhesive. Quesillo — Oaxacan string cheese — is pulled into ribbons and layered over the beans. The tlayuda is then placed back on the comal or over wood coals until the cheese melts and the edges of the tortilla achieve full crispness. Tasajo, which has been dried and briefly grilled, is layered on top, along with shredded cabbage dressed with lime, a spoonful of salsa, and sometimes a smear of Oaxacan-style guacamole. The result is a dish that offers simultaneous textures: crackling edges, a yielding centre under the bean layer, melted cheese, and the char and chew of grilled meat.