Salsa verde — tomatillo preparation

Pre-Columbian Mexico. The tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica) is native to Mexico and Central America and has been cultivated for at least 3,000 years.

Salsa verde is built from tomatillos (Physalis philadelphica — not green tomatoes, an entirely different plant) combined with fresh green chiles (serrano or jalapeño), white onion, garlic, and cilantro. The tomatillos unique flavour — tart, vegetal, with notes of gooseberry, citrus, and apple — is the defining element. Three preparation methods: raw (raw blended tomatillos — the most tart and herbaceous), boiled (simmered tomatillos produce a more mellow, rounded flavour), and charred/roasted (dry-roasted on a comal or broiled under a salamander — produces a smoky, caramelised depth). The raw preparation is used for guacamole verde (tomatillo guacamole) and aqua fresca applications; the boiled preparation is the standard for enchiladas verdes and chiles en salsa verde; the charred preparation is used for tacos, carnitas, and deep-flavoured applications. Tomatillos must be husked and washed — the outer papery husk is removed and the sticky residue on the fruit rinsed under cold water; this residue is bitter and the washing step is essential.

Raw salsa verde is bracingly tart and herbaceous; boiled salsa verde is rounded and vegetally sweet; charred salsa verde is complex with smoke and caramel notes that balance the tomatillos natural acidity.