Lard (manteca) versus vegetable shortening in Mexican cooking

Universal Mexican culinary tradition — lard was the historical fat; vegetable shortening is the modern substitute

The political and flavour divide between lard and vegetable shortening in Mexican cooking reflects the 20th century industrialisation of the food supply. Lard (rendered pork fat) was the universal cooking fat in Mexico until hydrogenated vegetable shortening (Inca, Manteca Vegetal) became cheap and widely available in the 1950s–70s. In traditional and contemporary quality cooking, rendered lard is considered essential for tamales, carnitas, tortillas, refried beans, and mole frying. The flavour difference is significant and widely understood.

Lard: rich, neutral pork fat — subtle savoriness that enhances everything it cooks in; vegetable shortening: neutral but without the flavour contribution