Bibingka — Filipino Rice Cake

Soften the banana leaves by passing each sheet briefly over an open flame or hot charcoal until the colour deepens and the leaf becomes pliable. Line the clay pot with the leaves, pressing them against the sides and base, leaving an overhang. The leaf should be fully in contact with the interior — any gaps will lose the signature aroma.

Combine the glutinous rice flour and rice flour (or galapong) in a bowl. Add the sugar and mix to distribute. Beat the eggs into the coconut milk, then pour the wet mixture into the dry. Whisk until the batter is smooth and no dry flour remains. The batter should be pourable but have body — it should coat the whisk and fall in a slow, even ribbon.

Pour the batter into the banana leaf-lined clay pot. Set over a charcoal heat source below. Apply heat from above — traditionally a second bed of charcoal held above the pot — or use a broiler element pre-heated to high. This dual heat is where the dish lives or dies: without heat from above, the top will not set to a golden crust, and the bibingka's defining character is lost. Bake until the batter is nearly set at the centre and the edges have pulled away slightly from the leaf — the top will still look pale at this stage.

When the cake is nearly set, lay the salted duck egg rounds over the surface and scatter the grated queso de bola or cheddar evenly. Return to the heat — above and below — until the cheese melts and the top is golden-brown, and the banana leaf at the edges has charred slightly. The aroma of toasted rice, coconut, and charring leaf should be pronounced.

Remove from the heat. Brush the surface immediately with butter or coconut cream. The top should be golden-brown with visible melted cheese and the salted egg rounds set into the surface; the banana leaf should be visible and lightly charred at the edges. Serve directly in the pot.