II
The Method
1
Soak the dried shiitake in cold water for a minimum of 2 hours. Squeeze each mushroom firmly over the bowl to recover all liquid, then strain the soaking liquid through a fine cloth to remove grit. Reserve this liquid — it is the backbone of the braise. Trim and halve the mushrooms. The liquid is ready when it is deep amber and carries a concentrated, earthy aroma.
2
Press the tofu for 20–30 minutes under a weighted board or between clean cloths to expel excess moisture. Cut into even slices or triangles and season lightly with salt. Set in a single layer on a dry surface. The tofu is ready when the surface is visibly dry and holds its shape without slumping.
3
Heat the neutral oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Lay the tofu pieces in without overlapping and pan-fry undisturbed until deep golden on the first side; turn once and repeat on the second side. Remove and set aside. The exterior should be slightly firm, golden, and audibly crisping at the edges — this surface is what allows the tofu to absorb the braise without disintegrating.
4
Reduce the heat to medium. In the same pan, add the garlic, ginger, and spring onion and cook briefly until fragrant — the raw sharpness of garlic and ginger will soften to a rounded, sweet-savoury note detectable by smell.
5
Add the strained mushroom soaking liquid, soy sauce,
oyster sauce, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar, and white pepper. Stir to combine. Return the pan-fried tofu and the soaked mushrooms to the pan. The liquid should not cover the tofu — this is a shallow braise, not a stew. Adjust the level by sight.
6
Braise over medium heat for 15–20 minutes, turning the tofu gently once. The dish lives or dies at the moment the liquid has reduced to approximately one third of its original volume and begins to coat the tofu in a thick, mahogany glaze: add the cornstarch slurry now, toss the pan once, and remove from heat immediately. Too little reduction yields a thin, watery sauce; a moment's overreach and the glaze turns tacky and the tofu begins to break apart.
7
Off the heat, drizzle the sesame oil over the pan and turn once to incorporate. The finished dish should carry the clean, aromatic top note of sesame oil over the deep, concentrated umami of the reduced mushroom braise.