Canard Rouennais à la Presse

Canard à la rouennaise is arguably the most dramatic dish in the entire French repertoire — a blood-enriched preparation of Rouen duckling that requires a specialized duck press (presse à canard), tableside execution, and a breed of duck unique to the Seine valley. The Rouen duck (caneton rouennais) is a cross between wild and domestic strains, smaller than Barbary duck, with darker, more intensely flavored flesh. Crucially, it must be killed by smothering (not bleeding), which retains the blood in the tissues and gives the meat its characteristic deep red color and mineral, almost liver-like intensity. The duck is roasted rare (18-20 minutes at 230°C for a 1.8kg bird — the breast should be 52-55°C internal, still deeply pink). The legs and breasts are carved tableside. The breasts are sliced thin and kept warm. The carcass, with its blood-rich bones and remaining flesh, is placed in the duck press — a magnificent cast-iron and silver device — and crushed with tremendous force, extracting a thick, dark red juice that is essentially concentrated duck blood and marrow. This press juice is combined in a chafing dish with reduced red wine (Burgundy or Bordeaux), a spoonful of cognac, foie gras mousse, butter, and a few drops of lemon juice. The mixture is heated gently, never above 65°C (the blood proteins coagulate at 70°C, which would ruin the sauce), whisked into a velvety, dark, intensely savory sauce. The sliced breast is napped with this sauce and served immediately. The legs are grilled and served as a second course with salad. La Tour d'Argent in Paris, which has served this dish since the 19th century, numbers each duck served.