II
The Method
1
Place the beef bones, marrow and shin in a large pot. Cover with cold water and bring slowly to the boil, skimming the grey foam as it rises. Add the carrots, celery, charred onion, peppercorns and bay leaf. Reduce to the lowest possible simmer and cook for 3 to 4 hours, skimming periodically. Pass through a fine sieve and return to a clean pan. The finished broth must be clear, amber, and free of fat. Degrease by chilling and lifting the solidified fat if time allows.
2
Place the dry bread cubes in a wide bowl. Pour the warm milk over them and leave to saturate fully for 15 minutes. Then squeeze the bread firmly in both hands — it should be uniformly moist but yield no free liquid when pressed. If milk pools at the bottom of the bowl after squeezing, the bread has not been squeezed sufficiently.
3
Add the beaten eggs, flour, diced Speck, diced cheese, parsley and salt to the squeezed bread. Mix with the hands until a cohesive, workable mass forms. The mixture should hold a formed ball without cracking at the surface and without sticking aggressively to the palms. This is where the dish lives or dies: a mixture that is too wet will collapse in the broth; compensate with flour added in small increments — no more than is strictly necessary, as excess flour produces heavy, starchy dumplings that do not float.
4
Bring the finished broth to a bare simmer. Pinch off a small amount of the mixture and poach it as a test canederlo for 8 to 10 minutes. If it holds together and floats, the mixture is correct. If it breaks, incorporate flour incrementally into the remaining mixture and test again before forming the full batch.
5
With dampened hands, shape the mixture into balls of approximately 6 to 7 cm in diameter — roughly the size of a small mandarin. Place on a tray and refrigerate uncovered for at least 20 minutes. The surface will firm and the canederli will hold their shape during poaching. A longer rest overnight is preferable for structure.
6
Lower the canederli gently into the barely simmering broth. Maintain a gentle, trembling simmer throughout — no rolling boil at any stage. Poach for 12 to 15 minutes. The canederli are done when they have swollen slightly, feel yielding but not soft to a light press with a spoon, and float steadily at the surface.
7
Ladle three canederli per person into deep, warmed bowls. Pour the hot, clear broth over and around them — it is both setting and sauce. Serve immediately; the canederli absorb broth rapidly and soften if left to stand.