Cantonese Braised Pig's Trotters (Hong Shao Zhu Ti)

Place the trotters in a large pot of cold water. Bring to the boil and blanch for 5 minutes, skimming the grey foam that rises. Drain, rinse under cold running water, and pat dry. The water should run clear before the trotters leave the pot.

Heat the oil in a wide heavy pot over medium heat. Add the trotters in a single layer and brown on all sides, turning with tongs, until the skin shows a uniform amber-gold. This step develops colour and depth; without it the finished dish is flat.

Pour in the Shaoxing wine; it will hiss and reduce in seconds. Add the soy sauce, dark soy sauce, rock sugar, star anise, five-spice powder, and ginger. Pour in the water to just cover the trotters. Bring to a gentle simmer, stirring until the rock sugar has fully dissolved — the liquid should be a deep reddish-brown from the moment the sugar melts.

This is where the dish lives or dies: reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting, cover tightly, and braise for 2 to 3 hours without allowing the liquid to rise above a bare tremble. An aggressive boil will break the skin apart before the collagen has time to convert; a slow, patient heat melts the collagen into the sauce while holding the skin intact. At 2 hours, test a piece — the skin should yield to the lightest pressure of a fingernail, pulling away from the bone without resistance, and feel distinctly slippery between the fingers.

Remove the lid and raise the heat slightly. Reduce the braising liquid, spooning it continuously over the trotters, until it coats the back of a spoon thickly and clings to the skin in a glossy, lacquer-like layer.

Remove from the heat and allow the trotters to cool in the braising liquid. The residual gelatin will set the sauce to a coating consistency around each piece. Serve at this stage — or refrigerate and serve cold, when the sauce will have set to a firm, sliceable jelly.