Cantonese Turnip (Daikon) Braised Beef Brisket (Lo Bak Ngau Lam)

Blanch the brisket in a separate pot of cold water brought to the boil, and the tendon in a second pot, so that each piece releases its blood and grey foam into its own water without cross-contaminating the other's braising potential. Drain both and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear and the surfaces show no grey foam.

Place the blanched tendon in a heavy braising pot and add the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, sugar, and enough water to submerge — the tendon goes in first because it needs the full head start to soften from its near-rigid state before the brisket joins it. Bring to a gentle simmer, braise for 1 hour, then add the brisket in its large pieces and continue on a low, steady simmer for a further 1 to 2 hours; the braising liquid should deepen to a rich amber and the tendon yield to gentle pressure but not yet collapse.

This is where the dish lives or dies: add the daikon chunks no earlier than 40 minutes before serving, so the pieces have time to drink in the braising liquid and turn amber to their core without dissolving entirely and losing all texture and form. A chopstick or skewer should pass through each piece with no resistance when the daikon is done.

Lift the brisket and check that it has braised into thick, chunky portions — tender enough to pull apart at the grain but still holding cohesive shape, so that it serves in satisfying slabs rather than shredded strands. The tendon should be fully gelatinous and trembling, and the braising liquid full-bodied, richly coloured, and coating the back of a spoon.

Transfer to a clay pot or earthenware dish and serve immediately over steamed rice or noodles. The dish is at its best piping hot; the gelatinous tendon and fat begin to set as it cools.