II
The Method
1
Place the whole chicken in a large, heavy pot. Cover with the water. Add the celery, onion, carrot, and herbs. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook for 1 to 2 hours, skimming the surface as needed. The dish is ready to proceed when the meat falls freely from the bone at the touch of a fork.
2
Lift the chicken from the pot and set aside to cool slightly. Strain the broth through a fine sieve, discarding the solids, and return it to the pot. The broth must be rich, full-bodied, and deeply savoury at this point — it must be a meal before the dumplings go in. Taste it now; this is the moment to correct the seasoning with salt.
3
When the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones and shred it into substantial pieces. Discard the skin and bones. Set the shredded meat aside.
4
For flat dumplings: combine the flour and salt, then rub in the shortening (or butter-shortening mixture, following Edna Lewis) until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the milk and mix until a firm dough forms. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and roll to 3–4 mm thickness. Cut into strips approximately 3 cm wide. For drop dumplings: whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Rub in the shortening. Stir in the milk until a soft, cohesive, spoonable dough just comes together — it should not be poured.
5
This is where the dish lives or dies. Bring the strained broth to a steady simmer — not a rolling boil. For flat dumplings, lay the strips into the simmering broth one at a time; for drop dumplings, spoon the dough in rounded portions directly from the spoon into the broth. Do not stir. Do not lift the lid if cooking drop dumplings — the trapped steam is essential to cook them through. Cook flat dumplings for 8–10 minutes; drop dumplings for 12–15 minutes. The dumplings are done when they are tender through their centre, and the broth has turned thick and slightly cloudy with released starch.
6
Return the shredded chicken to the pot and allow it to warm through in the broth for 2–3 minutes. The finished dish should sit between a soup and a stew — thick, starchy, and opaque. A clear broth with dumplings floating freely in it is not the correct result.