II
The Method
1
The evening before baking, combine the biga flour, water, and the very small quantity of yeast in a bowl. Mix until no dry flour remains — the biga will be stiff and rough, not smooth. Cover and ferment at room temperature for 10–12 hours. It is ready when domed, laced with bubbles throughout, and carries a clean, mildly acidic smell.
2
Tear the biga into rough pieces and place in the bowl of a stand mixer or a large mixing bowl. Add the final dough flour, water, and yeast. Mix on low speed (or by hand with a dough whisk) until a rough, shaggy mass forms. Add the salt and continue mixing for 4–5 minutes until the dough is cohesive. It will be extremely wet and will not clear the sides of the bowl — this is correct. Total hydration is 75–80%; the dough should look almost pourable.
3
This is where the bread lives or dies. Over the first 2 hours of bulk fermentation, perform a stretch-and-fold cycle every 30 minutes — four cycles in total. For each cycle, wet the hand, reach under one side of the dough, stretch it upward as far as it will extend without tearing, and fold it over the centre; rotate the bowl 90° and repeat from each of the four sides. The dough must not be turned out, kneaded, or worked aggressively. By the fourth cycle, the dough will have gained perceptible tension — it will resist the stretch and begin to hold the folded shape momentarily before relaxing. Do not add flour at any point.
4
After the four stretch-and-fold cycles, leave the dough undisturbed for a further 2 hours of bulk fermentation, covered, at room temperature. It is ready when it has increased by at least 75% in volume, the surface is domed and trembling with internal gas, and the underside viewed through the bowl shows a clearly open, bubble-laced structure.
5
Place a baking stone or steel on the middle shelf and a shallow roasting tray on the shelf below. Preheat the oven to 240°C (conventional) for at least 45 minutes before baking. The stone must be thoroughly saturated with heat — a stone pulled from a cold oven will collapse oven spring immediately.
6
Dust the bench generously with flour. With a bench scraper, cut the bulk-fermented dough into two roughly equal pieces — one decisive cut per portion; do not saw or drag. Slide the scraper under each piece and invert it onto the floured surface so the smooth underside faces up. Dust the tops with flour. With floured hands, gently tug each piece into a rough rectangle approximately 25 cm × 12 cm — the flat, wide form is the natural consequence of the wet dough and is correct. Do not attempt to build height. Transfer immediately to a flour-dusted peel or baking paper. Allow to rest, uncovered, for 20 minutes. The loaves are ready to bake when the surface is slightly dry to the touch and the dough has relaxed and spread fractionally wider.
7
Pour 200 ml of hot water into the preheated roasting tray to generate steam, then immediately slide the loaves onto the hot stone. Bake at 240°C for 20–25 minutes. Do not open the oven during the first 15 minutes. The loaves are done when the crust is a deep, even amber-gold, the base sounds hollow when rapped sharply with a knuckle, and the loaves feel very light for their size — the large interior air pockets have set and dried.
8
Transfer to a wire rack. Rest for a minimum of 20 minutes before slicing. The crust will crackle audibly as it cools and contracts — this is the thin crust releasing tension. Slicing too early collapses the still-setting crumb structure.