Crémets d'Anjou

Crémets d'Anjou is the Angevin dessert that proves the Loire Valley's mastery of dairy in its purest form — a cloud of whipped cream and beaten egg whites folded together, drained in small perforated heart-shaped moulds lined with muslin, and served with fresh berries and sugar. Nothing more, nothing less. The preparation is elemental: whip 250ml of very cold, very fresh heavy cream (crème fraîche épaisse, minimum 35% fat) to soft peaks. Separately, beat 2 egg whites to stiff, glossy peaks with a pinch of salt. Fold the whites into the cream with extreme gentleness — the goal is maximum aeration, a texture that is more air than substance. Spoon the mixture into muslin-lined heart moulds (the traditional coeur à la crème shape, perforated for drainage) and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. The muslin wicks away excess moisture while the perforations allow whey to drain, leaving a firmer-textured but still ethereally light cream that holds its heart shape when unmoulded. The crémets are turned out onto plates and served with a coulis of fresh strawberries (the Anjou is famous for its fraises, particularly the Gariguette variety), a scattering of whole berries, and a dusting of fine sugar. Some versions fold a tablespoon of fromage blanc or crème fraîche into the base for tanginess. The dish's power lies in its restraint — it is the opposite of elaborate pâtisserie, relying entirely on the quality of the cream, the freshness of the eggs, and the skill of the fold. Curnonsky, the 'Prince of Gastronomes' and a native of Angers, declared crémets d'Anjou the greatest dessert in France — high praise from a man who had eaten them all.