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Cromesquis — Béchamel-Bound Deep-Fried Croquettes

Cromesquis (from the Polish kromeczki, 'little slices') are the most refined of the fried preparations — a thick, cold béchamel-based filling (salpicon) containing diced cooked meat, poultry, fish, or mushrooms, shaped into cylinders, wrapped in a thin crêpe, coated in batter or breadcrumbs, and deep-fried until the exterior shatters to reveal a molten, creamy interior. They are distinguished from croquettes by the crêpe wrapper and the batter coating (croquettes use paner à l'anglaise directly on the shaped mixture). The filling (salpicon lié): dice the main ingredient (200g cooked chicken, ham, mushrooms, lobster, or a mixture) into 5mm brunoise. Bind with 300ml very thick béchamel (roux-heavy: 60g each butter and flour per 300ml milk — this is twice the normal ratio, producing an almost paste-like consistency). Season assertively (the cold dulls flavour), spread on a tray 1.5cm thick, chill until completely firm (2 hours minimum). Cut into rectangles (6cm × 3cm), wrap each in a thin crêpe (the crêpe prevents the béchamel from leaking into the batter), then dip in pâte à frire (beer batter) or paner à l'anglaise. Deep-fry at 175°C for 3-4 minutes until deeply golden — the lower temperature (compared to standard 180°C) allows the centre to heat through before the exterior over-browns. The cromesqui is done when the batter is crisp and the interior is molten but not leaking. Serve two per person as a first course, on a folded napkin with fried parsley and the appropriate sauce (Sauce Périgueux for chicken cromesquis, Sauce Nantua for lobster).

‹Swipe for the next dish›
ServesEight cromesquis (two per person as a first course)
Total2 hours 45 minutes (including chilling)
Sourced0of 10 in BC
Cook
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I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

For the salpicon filling
200 g
cooked chicken, ham, mushrooms, or lobster (or a mixture)
cut into 5 mm brunoise
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
60 g
unsalted butter
Your own market
60 g
plain flour
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
300 ml
whole milk
Your own market
1 tsp
fine salt
season assertively; cold dulls flavour
Your own market
For the crêpe wrapper
8
thin crêpes
plain, unsweetened, sized to enclose a 6 cm × 3 cm rectangle
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the coating
250 ml
beer batter (pâte à frire)
or paner à l'anglaise (egg and breadcrumbs)
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For frying and service
2 litres
neutral frying oil
for deep-frying at 175 °C
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 bunch
flat-leaf parsley
fried, for garnish
Your own market
200 ml
Sauce Périgueux (for chicken cromesquis) or Sauce Nantua (for lobster)
served alongside
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II

The Method

1
Make the béchamel at twice the standard ratio. Melt 60 g butter in a heavy saucepan, add 60 g flour, and stir over moderate heat to a pale roux. Pour in 300 ml whole milk, whisking without pause, and cook until the mixture thickens to an almost paste-like consistency — far stiffer than a standard béchamel. Season assertively. The béchamel is ready when it pulls cleanly from the sides of the pan and holds its shape on a spoon.
From the canon — Béchamel is white roux combined with hot milk — one of Escoffier's five mother sauces and the foundation of gratin preparations, sauce Mornay, croque monsieu… Béchamel →
2
Fold the 5 mm brunoise of the chosen main ingredient into the hot béchamel and stir to distribute evenly. Spread the mixture on a flat tray to a depth of exactly 1.5 cm. Press a sheet of cling film directly onto the surface and refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours. The filling is ready when it is completely firm and holds a clean edge when pressed with a finger.
3
Turn the set salpicon onto a board and cut into rectangles of 6 cm × 3 cm — this is the maximum size at which the centre can heat through before the exterior over-browns. Lay each rectangle on a thin crêpe, fold the crêpe snugly around it, and press the seam closed. The parcel should be compact, with no gaps through which béchamel can escape.
4
Dip each crêpe-wrapped parcel in beer batter (or coat by paner à l'anglaise), ensuring a complete, even layer with no bare patches. If using paner à l'anglaise, press the crumbs gently to adhere.
5
Heat the frying oil to 175 °C — deliberately lower than the standard 180 °C to allow the thick filling time to heat through. Lower the cromesquis into the oil in batches without crowding and fry for 3 to 4 minutes. The cromesquis are done when the batter is deeply golden and shatters to light pressure, and the interior, tested by probing one cromesqui, is molten but not leaking.
6
Lift the cromesquis from the oil and drain briefly. Serve immediately — two per person — on a folded napkin, garnished with fried parsley and accompanied by Sauce Périgueux (for chicken) or Sauce Nantua (for lobster). The interior remains molten only at the moment of service.
From the canon — Sauce Périgueux is the Périgord’s most celebrated sauce — a truffle-enriched demi-glace that represents the supreme expression of the region’s black diamond,… Sauce Périgueux →
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Lobster salpicon bound with Sauce Nantua (crayfish butter, coral colour, deep crustacean flavour), enclosed in a hair-thin crêpe, coated in a light beer batter, and served with Sauce Nantua alongside.
02
Estate — Chicken or ham brunoise from a well-sourced bird or cured leg, bound in an impeccably seasoned double-strength béchamel made with full-fat milk, served with Sauce Périgueux.
03
Market — A mixture of cooked chicken and mushrooms, bound in a careful double-strength béchamel, wrapped, battered, and fried to order — the workhorse version of the recipe as given.
04
House — Any single diced cooked ingredient to hand, bound in the correct thick béchamel and coated in paner à l'anglaise rather than beer batter — less refined but structurally sound if the chilling and temperature are respected.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. The béchamel pulls cleanly from the sides of the pan and holds its shape without spreading on a spoon.
◇Touch. The chilled salpicon holds a clean, sharp edge when cut and does not deform when pressed with a fingertip.
◇Touch. The crêpe parcel is compact and firm, with no soft or yielding patches that would indicate an unsealed seam.
◇Sight. The batter coating is deeply golden across the entire surface with no pale or bare patches.
◇Sound. The batter shatters audibly when tapped lightly — indicating the crust has set dry and crisp around a molten interior.
◇Where it lives or dies. The béchamel must be made at twice the standard ratio — a paste-like, roux-heavy consistency — because any thinner and it will melt completely during frying, causing the cromesquis to explode.
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VI

What to Pour

A crisp, high-acid white wine — Chablis premier cru or a lean Alsatian Pinot Gris — cuts the richness of the béchamel without competing with the delicate main ingredient. For the lobster version with Sauce Nantua, a white Burgundy of village level is appropriate. Champagne brut is defensible for either, given the fried format and first-course context.

The whole pairing
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