Dal-Dhokli — Pasta Sheets in Spiced Lentil Broth (दाल ढोकली)

Cook the toor dal: place the rinsed dal in a pressure cooker or heavy saucepan with the litre of water and the turmeric. Pressure-cook for 3 whistles (or simmer covered for 35–40 minutes) until the dal is completely soft and collapses when pressed between two fingers, so that the finished broth is uniformly smooth and carries no grainy pockets that would roughen the dish. Whisk or blend to a smooth, pourable consistency; the dal is ready when no whole lentil remains and the broth is uniformly yellow and opaque.

Make the dhokli dough: combine the atta, besan, carom seeds, sesame seeds, chilli powder, turmeric, salt, and oil in a bowl, then rub the oil through the flours until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs — coating the flour in fat before any water is added keeps the dough supple and short, so the cooked dhokli will be tender rather than chewy. Add the water gradually, working the dough until it is firm and smooth — neither sticky nor cracking at the edges — then rest it covered for 10 minutes so the flours fully absorb the moisture and the dough rolls without tearing. The dough is ready when it holds a clean impression of a thumb without spring-back.

Roll and cut the dhokli: divide the dough into two portions and, on a lightly floured surface, roll each to 3–4 mm thickness — no thinner or it will tear in the boiling dal, no thicker or the centre will not cook through in the allotted time. Cut into rough diamonds or rectangles of approximately 4 cm. Dust lightly with flour to keep each piece separate and set aside in a single layer so they do not bond together before cooking.

Temper the dal: bring the cooked dal back to a gentle simmer over medium heat, adding water if needed to achieve a freely flowing consistency, so the dhokli will move freely once added and not sit on the bottom. In a small pan, heat the ghee over high heat until it shimmers, then add the mustard seeds and wait for them to pop before adding the cumin seeds, curry leaves, dried red chillies, and asafoetida — the fat must be properly hot so the spices bloom instantly and release their full fragrance rather than stewing slowly and turning bitter. Pour the vaghar immediately into the simmering dal, stir in the jaggery, tamarind, Gujarati garam masala, and salt, then taste: the sweet-sour balance is the dish's identity, with neither jaggery nor tamarind dominating, so adjust now before the dhokli go in and absorb these flavours into the broth.

Add the dhokli: this is where the dish lives or dies. Slide the cut dhokli into the simmering dal in three or four small batches, stirring gently after each addition to separate the pieces before the next batch goes in, so the liquid can get between each piece before the surfaces become tacky. Maintain a steady simmer throughout — a rolling boil will break the dhokli apart, a barely warm liquid will leave them raw in the centre — and cook for 12–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the dhokli have swelled visibly and the broth has thickened to a porridge-like consistency from the starch released as they cook. The dhokli are done when they offer no resistance when pressed and their surface is glossy rather than floury.

Remove from the heat and allow the dal-dhokli to stand for 10 minutes so the starch settles and the broth thickens to its final body — the flavours, particularly the tamarind and jaggery, will also knit together more cleanly during this rest. Ladle into deep bowls and place a generous lump of ghee on the surface of each so it melts into the broth, enriching and glossing the dhokli as it does. Serve immediately with papad and pickle alongside.