Farinata

Farinata is Liguria's ancient chickpea-flour flatbread—a thin, golden, crispy-edged pancake baked in a wide copper pan at extreme heat that is essentially a Ligurian relative of Palermo's panelle and Nice's socca, all sharing the same chickpea-flour-and-water DNA. The batter could not be simpler: chickpea flour whisked into water with olive oil and salt, rested for several hours (ideally overnight), then poured into a large, shallow, oiled copper pan (testi) and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven at 300°C+ for 10-15 minutes. The extreme heat creates a bread that is crispy and golden-brown on the surface with a creamy, custard-like interior—the exterior shatters audibly while the centre yields softly. The thinness is critical: farinata should be no more than 5mm thick, ideally 3mm, which ensures proper crisping. The copper pan is traditional because it distributes heat evenly and produces the best crust. Farinata is served immediately, cut into irregular wedges or rectangles with a long-handled spatula, seasoned with nothing but a generous grinding of black pepper. It is the quintessential Genovese street food, sold from dedicated farinata shops (farinaterie) and pizzerie throughout Liguria, and is the standard accompaniment to a glass of wine in any trattoria. The batter's overnight rest is not optional—it allows the flour to fully hydrate and develops a slightly fermented tang that provides flavour complexity. Some versions add rosemary, thinly sliced onion, or young artichokes on top before baking.