Fileja al Ragù di Capra — Twisted Pasta with Goat Ragù

Combine the semolina rimacinata with 200 ml of warm water, adding the remaining water only if the dough is crumbling dry, since semolina absorbs slowly and a premature addition produces a dough too slack to hold its spiral once shaped. Knead for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and firm — it must not be soft or tacky. Wrap and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature; the dough is ready when it no longer springs back under a fingertip, meaning the gluten has relaxed enough to roll without tearing.

Roll portions of the rested dough into ropes of 3 mm diameter and cut into lengths of 6–7 cm. Lay the ferretto (or thin metal skewer, 3 mm diameter) at a 45-degree angle to a piece of dough, press lightly, and roll the dough around the rod with firm, even pressure throughout, so the spiral closes tightly and forms the hollow centre that will later trap the ragù rather than letting it slide past. This is where the dish lives or dies: too little pressure produces a flat, open tube that will not hold the ragù; a firm, tight wrap produces the closed spiral hollow that defines the shape. Slide the formed fileja off the rod and work all the dough before proceeding.

Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over a high flame and brown the goat shoulder pieces in batches, turning until all surfaces are deeply coloured and the pan smells of caramelised meat rather than raw, so each piece builds a crust that will give the finished ragù its depth of colour and savour. Do not crowd the pan, as pieces packed together will steam rather than colour. Remove the pieces and set aside.

Return all the goat to the pan, add the peperoncino piccante, then pour in the white wine and allow it to reduce by half — the sharp alcohol smell dissipates and a rounder, fruitier aroma takes its place, signalling that the wine will add sweetness to the sauce rather than harsh bite. Add the tomato and dried oregano and stir to combine.

Reduce the heat to a low simmer, cover, and braise for 2.5 to 3 hours, checking periodically that the liquid has not reduced below the level of the meat, since exposed pieces will dry out and tighten rather than yielding to the fork. The ragù is done when the goat is falling from the bone and the sauce is glossy and dark; pull the meat from the bones, shred it coarsely, and return it to the sauce, discarding the bones.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a full boil and cook the fileja until just tender — fresh semolina fileja will take 4–6 minutes. Taste one: it should offer slight resistance at the very centre of the spiral, so it holds its shape during the final toss in the ragù rather than softening to a formless strand. Drain, reserving a ladleful of the cooking water.

Transfer the drained fileja directly into the ragù pan and toss over a medium flame for 1–2 minutes, adding a splash of the reserved cooking water if the sauce tightens too much, since the starchy water loosens it without thinning its flavour. The finished dish should be cohesive: sauce coating the exterior spiral and drawn into the hollow centre, with no loose liquid pooling in the pan.