II
The Method
1
Dry every ingredient destined for the pan with paper or a clean cloth. Any surface moisture will drop the oil temperature and cause steaming rather than frying. The ingredients are ready when they feel completely dry to the touch.
2
Prepare the zucchini flower batter: whisk together the flour, cold water, and salt to a smooth, thin paste with no lumps. It should coat a finger in a translucent film and run off cleanly.
3
Set the oil over a steady flame and bring it to 175–180°C. Verify with a thermometer or by lowering a pinch of flour: it should sizzle immediately and rise to the surface without browning at once. Maintain this temperature throughout — this is where the dish lives or dies; oil below temperature produces greasy, heavy results; oil above temperature burns the coating before the interior is done.
4
For the flour-only items — anchovies, whitebait, sage leaves — toss in flour in small batches, shake away every trace of excess, and lower at once into the oil. Fry in small quantities only, so the temperature can recover between batches. The pieces are done when they are uniformly golden and hold their shape when lifted with a spider.
5
For the zucchini flowers, dip each flower into the batter, allow the excess to fall back into the bowl, and lower immediately into the oil. Fry until the batter is pale gold and set. Remove as soon as the batter is firm and shows no raw patches; the delicate interior must not overcook.
6
For the panatura items, pass each piece first through flour, then through beaten egg, then press firmly into the breadcrumbs on all surfaces — Hazan's standard is a compact, adherent crumb layer with no gaps. Lower into the hot oil in small batches. The coating is done when it is deep golden and completely dry-sounding when tapped with a spoon.
7
Transfer each batch to a rack or paper-lined tray. Season immediately with fine salt. Serve at once: correctly fried food is not oily, and it will not wait.