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French

Gnocchi à la Parisienne — Choux Paste Gnocchi

Gnocchi à la parisienne are a distinctly French creation — small dumplings made from choux pastry (pâte à choux) rather than the potato-based Italian gnocchi, poached in simmering water until they float, then gratinéed under sauce Mornay with Gruyère until bubbling and golden. The choux base gives them a lighter, more delicate texture than potato gnocchi — pillowy and almost soufflé-like, with a delicate egg richness that absorbs sauce beautifully. Prepare a pâte à choux: bring 250ml of water, 100g of butter, and a pinch of salt to a rolling boil. Remove from heat, add 150g of flour all at once, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth ball that pulls cleanly from the sides of the pan. Return to medium heat and stir for 2-3 minutes to dry the paste — a thin film forming on the bottom of the pan indicates sufficient drying. Transfer to a bowl and beat in 4 eggs, one at a time, incorporating each fully before adding the next. The paste should be smooth, glossy, and hold a soft peak when lifted on the spoon. Beat in 80g of finely grated Gruyère for flavour. Bring a wide pot of salted water to a gentle simmer (not a rolling boil, which tears the gnocchi apart). Using two teaspoons dipped in hot water, shape quenelle-sized portions and drop them into the simmering water. Work in batches of 8-10 to avoid overcrowding. The gnocchi will sink, then float to the surface after 3-4 minutes — continue cooking for 2 minutes after they float. Lift with a slotted spoon and drain on a clean cloth. Arrange the poached gnocchi in a single layer in a buttered gratin dish. Nappé generously with sauce Mornay (béchamel enriched with Gruyère and egg yolks), scatter additional grated Gruyère over the top, and gratinée under a hot grill or in a 220°C oven for 10-12 minutes until the sauce bubbles fiercely and the top is spotted with deep golden-brown. Serve immediately — the gnocchi beneath the bubbling sauce should be light and tender, having absorbed some of the sauce's richness while retaining their delicate, choux-based airiness.

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ServesFour portions
Sourced0of 10 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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For the pâte à choux
250 ml
water
Your own market
100 g
unsalted butter
Your own market
1 pinch
fine salt
Your own market
150 g
plain flour
added all at once
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
4
eggs
beaten in one at a time
Your own market
80 g
Gruyère
finely grated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the sauce Mornay
500 ml
béchamel
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
80 g
Gruyère
finely grated, plus extra to scatter
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2
egg yolks
for enriching the béchamel
Your own market
For the gratin
20 g
unsalted butter
for buttering the gratin dish
Your own market
II

The Method

1
Combine 250 ml water, 100 g butter, and a pinch of salt in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a rolling boil, ensuring the butter is fully melted before the water reduces. Remove from heat and add 150 g flour all at once. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth, cohesive ball. Return to medium heat and stir continuously for 2–3 minutes to dry the paste; the paste is sufficiently dried when a thin, dry film forms on the bottom of the pan.
2
Transfer the dried paste to a bowl. Beat in 4 eggs one at a time, incorporating each fully before adding the next. This is where the dish lives or dies: eggs added too quickly prevent proper emulsification, producing a heavy, broken paste rather than one that is smooth, glossy, and holds a soft peak when lifted on the spoon.
3
Beat 80 g finely grated Gruyère into the finished paste until evenly distributed.
4
Bring a wide pot of salted water to a gentle simmer — not a rolling boil, which tears the gnocchi apart. Using two teaspoons dipped in hot water, shape quenelle-sized portions and drop them into the simmering water in batches of 8–10. The gnocchi will sink, then rise to the surface after 3–4 minutes. Continue cooking for a further 2 minutes after they float. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a clean cloth.
5
Arrange the poached gnocchi in a single layer in a buttered gratin dish. Nappé generously with sauce Mornay — béchamel enriched with Gruyère and egg yolks. Scatter additional grated Gruyère over the surface.
From the canon — Mornay is béchamel enriched with grated Gruyère (or a blend of Gruyère and Parmesan) and finished with egg yolks — the gratin sauce, the croque monsieur sauc… Sauce Mornay — Gruyère and Egg Yolk Béchamel →
6
Gratinée under a hot grill or in a 220 °C oven for 10–12 minutes. The dish is ready when the sauce bubbles fiercely across its entire surface and the top is spotted with deep golden-brown. Serve immediately.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Farmhouse Gruyère AOP aged 12 months or more — its crystalline depth withstands double deployment in paste and Mornay without turning sharp. Free-range eggs with deep-coloured yolks give the paste its characteristic gloss and richness.
02
Estate — Good-quality cave-aged Gruyère from a reputable affineur. Fresh free-range eggs. Cultured unsalted butter of 84% fat or above for a more flavoursome paste.
03
Market — Standard supermarket Gruyère, whole free-range eggs, and unsalted butter. Entirely serviceable; the technique remains the decisive factor at this level.
04
House — Pre-grated Gruyère and salted butter; the paste will be slightly less refined and the Mornay less integrated, but the dish remains coherent if the method is followed precisely.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. A thin, dry film forms on the bottom of the pan during the drying stage — the signal to remove from heat and begin adding eggs.
◇Sight. The finished paste is smooth and glossy, holding a soft peak when lifted on the spoon.
◇Sight. Gnocchi float to the surface of the simmering water, indicating they are nearly cooked; two further minutes complete them.
◇Sight. The gratinéed surface bubbles fiercely across its whole area and carries deep golden-brown spots — the gratin is ready.
◇Touch. A poached gnocco pressed gently between finger and thumb yields with light resistance — pillowy rather than dense or raw at the centre.
◇Where it lives or dies. The eggs must be beaten into the dried paste one at a time and fully incorporated before the next is added; failure here produces a heavy, broken paste that no amount of subsequent technique can rescue.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie
Domaine Charles Joguet · Chinon
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
Without alcohol
GT's Synergy Organic Kombucha — Gingerade
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Non-alcoholic

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The whole pairing
Pillar VII
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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