Jalebi — Fermented Batter Spiral (जलेबी)

Combine the maida, yoghurt, and yeast (if using) with enough lukewarm water to form a smooth batter slightly thicker than cream, so the warmth of the water wakes the yeast and the yoghurt begins to sour the batter gently from the start rather than sharply at the end. Cover and leave at room temperature for 12 hours. The batter is ready when small bubbles are distributed throughout and a faint sour note is detectable on the nose.

Dissolve the sugar in the water over medium heat, stirring until clear, then bring to a syrup at 65–70 Brix — the syrup coats the back of a spoon and a drop pressed between two fingers pulls a short thread — because a syrup too thin will not cling and one too thick will crystallise on the jalebi's surface. Add saffron or rose water if using. Remove from the heat and hold at 50–60°C, the surface feeling distinctly warm to a hovering palm but not hot, so the syrup stays fluid enough to flood the interior of the jalebi the moment they are submerged.

Heat the ghee or oil in a wide, shallow pan to 160–180°C, choosing a wide pan so that multiple spirals can be piped and turned without crowding and driving the temperature down. At the correct temperature, a small drop of batter sizzles immediately on contact, rises to the surface within two seconds, and holds its shape without spreading flat.

Fill a jalebi cloth with a 5 mm hole, or a squeeze bottle, with the fermented batter. Hold the vessel perpendicular to the oil surface and pipe in tight concentric spirals, working outward from a central point without allowing successive rings to touch, so each ring of batter fries individually and the finished jalebi will have the open channels the syrup needs to travel to the centre. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: the combination of oil temperature, batter consistency, and the steadiness of the piping hand must all be correct simultaneously — too hot and the batter sets before the spiral is complete; too cool and it spreads; a batter over-fermented will not hold its form regardless of temperature.

Fry the spirals, turning once, until the surface is an even amber and the jalebi feel firm and rigid when lifted with a slotted spoon, because colour alone can mislead — a pale jalebi may look done on the outside yet still be soft and doughy within, and it will collapse and turn leaden in the syrup. The interior must be cooked through: thin spirals with visible openings between the rings are the indicator that the heat has penetrated.

Transfer the jalebi directly from the oil into the warm sugar syrup within 30 seconds of removing them, while the crust is still fully crisp and the interior still open from the heat, so the syrup is drawn in by the pressure difference between the hot, airy interior and the liquid outside. Leave submerged for 2 minutes. A jalebi allowed to cool before immersion will seal itself as it contracts and remain dry inside no matter how long it soaks.

Lift the soaked jalebi from the syrup and serve immediately with rabri poured over or alongside. The correct jalebi delivers an audible crack at the first bite through the crust before the syrup-saturated interior releases.