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French · Burgundy

Jambon Persillé — Parsleyed Ham in Aspic

Jambon persillé is a Burgundian charcuterie specialty in which cooked ham (Sus scrofa domesticus) is hand-shredded and layered with abundant chopped parsley (Petroselinum crispum) in a white wine aspic derived from the ham's own poaching liquor. Traditionally, a whole bone-in ham shank of 3–4 kg is desalted by soaking in cold running water for 12–24 hours, depending on the cure intensity. The ham is then poached in a court-bouillon of dry white Burgundy wine (Aligoté or Chardonnay, approximately 750 ml per 4 litres of water), along with calves' feet (2 split feet per batch for gelatin), shallots, garlic (Allium sativum), thyme, bay laurel, tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus), and black peppercorns. Simmer at 85°C for 2.5–3 hours until the ham reaches an internal temperature of 72°C and the meat shreds easily. Remove the ham, strain the liquor through a fine chinois lined with cheesecloth, and reduce by one-third to concentrate gelatin and flavor. Degrease meticulously — chill the liquor and lift solidified fat from the surface. Adjust seasoning with white wine vinegar (15–20 ml per litre) and check the set by chilling a test sample. Hand-shred the ham into irregular pieces of varying size for textural interest. Combine 100 g of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley per kg of ham. In a glass or ceramic bowl, alternate layers of parsleyed ham with ladled aspic liquor at 30–32°C, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Refrigerate at 2–4°C for 12–24 hours for a complete set. Unmould and slice into thick wedges (15–20 mm). The cross-section should display a vivid mosaic of pink ham and bright green parsley suspended in a barely trembling, pale gold gelée.

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ServesSix to eight portions
Total36–51 hours (including desalting and setting)
Sourced2of 12 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

3–4 kg
bone-in ham shank
cured, whole
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2
calves' feet
split
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the court-bouillon
750 ml
dry white Burgundy wine
Aligoté or Chardonnay
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
4 litres
water
Your own market
3–4
shallots
peeled
Your own market
4 cloves
garlic
peeled
Your own market
4 sprigs
fresh thyme
2
bay laurel leaves
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
4 sprigs
fresh tarragon
1 tsp
black peppercorns
whole
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For finishing
100 g per kg of ham
flat-leaf parsley
finely chopped immediately before use
Your own market
15–20 ml per litre of liquor
white wine vinegar
Your own market

Each tap is counted, so the stockist sees the demand Provenance sends them.

II

The Method

1
Submerge the ham shank in a vessel under cold running water. Desalt for 12–24 hours according to the intensity of the cure. The ham is ready when a sliver tasted raw no longer registers an aggressive salt.
2
Place the desalted ham and the split calves' feet in a large pot. Cover with 4 litres of cold water and 750 ml of dry white Burgundy. Add the shallots, garlic, thyme, bay, tarragon, and peppercorns. Bring to temperature and hold a steady 85 °C — never a rolling boil — for 2.5–3 hours. The ham is done when it registers 72 °C at the bone and the meat shreds apart under light pressure with two forks.
3
Lift the ham and calves' feet from the pot. Strain the liquor through a fine chinois lined with cheesecloth into a clean vessel. Reduce the strained liquor by one-third over moderate heat to concentrate both gelatin and flavour. Chill the reduced liquor completely, then lift and discard every trace of solidified fat from the surface. The liquor must be crystal clear and free of any white deposit before proceeding — this step is where the dish lives or dies.
4
Return the degreased liquor to a gentle heat. Season with white wine vinegar at 15–20 ml per litre. To verify the set, spoon a small sample onto a chilled plate and refrigerate for five minutes: the gelée must tremble but hold a clean edge when the plate is tilted.
5
Blanch the flat-leaf parsley in boiling water for 5 seconds, then transfer immediately to ice water to fix the chlorophyll. Drain and chop finely. Hand-shred the ham into irregular pieces of varying size. Combine 100 g of chopped parsley per kg of shredded ham. The parsley must be vivid green, not khaki.
6
Cool the aspic liquor to 30–32 °C — warm to the wrist, not hot. In a glass or ceramic bowl, ladle a base layer of aspic, allow it to firm slightly, then add a layer of parsleyed ham, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Continue alternating layers of parsleyed ham and ladled aspic, pressing at each addition, until the bowl is filled. Refrigerate at 2–4 °C for 12–24 hours. The set is complete when the surface is fully firm and does not yield to light finger pressure.
7
Unmould and slice into wedges of 15–20 mm. The cross-section must display a vivid mosaic of pink ham and bright green parsley suspended in a pale gold, barely trembling gelée.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — A whole bone-in jambon de Bourgogne from a named artisan charcutier, air-cured and lightly salted; calves' feet from a known veal supplier; a single-domaine Burgundy Aligoté with genuine mineral acidity; tarragon vinegar made in-house from fresh tarragon.
02
Estate — A well-sourced cured ham shank from a reputable butcher; calves' feet ordered in advance; a sound Mâcon Blanc or regional Burgundy Chardonnay; good-quality commercial white wine vinegar.
03
Market — A commercially cured bone-in ham shank from a reliable supermarket counter; calves' feet from the standard butcher's order; an honest dry white wine; standard flat-leaf parsley, chopped to order.
04
House — Any cured bone-in ham shank available; substitute powdered gelatine if calves' feet cannot be sourced, adjusting quantity to achieve the required set; any dry white wine; dried tarragon used in the court-bouillon only.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. The shredded ham parts under light fork pressure and the internal temperature reads 72 °C at the bone.
◇Sight. The reduced, chilled liquor is crystal clear with no white fat deposits visible on the surface or within the liquid.
◇Touch. A chilled test spoonful of aspic holds a clean trembling edge on a cold plate when tilted.
◇Sight. The blanched, chopped parsley is vivid green, not khaki or dull.
◇Touch. The finished moulded terrine does not yield to light finger pressure after 12–24 hours at 2–4 °C.
◇Sight. Sliced wedges show an even mosaic of pink ham and bright green parsley suspended in pale gold gelée without clouding, fat deposits, or air voids.
◇Where it lives or dies. The degreasing of the poaching liquor is the point of no return: fat left in the aspic clouds the gelée, coats the palate, and cannot be corrected once the terrine has set.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Bushmills Malt 10 Year Old
Old Bushmills Distillery · County Antrim — Bushmills Distillery
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Whisky
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
Without alcohol
GT's Synergy Organic Kombucha — Gingerade
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Non-alcoholic

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The whole pairing
Pillar VII
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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