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Japanese · Ibaraki

Japanese Monkfish Anko Liver Ankou Nabe and Ibaraki Winter Delicacy

Ankou (鮟鱇, monkfish/anglerfish) is Japan's quintessential winter deep-water fish — celebrated primarily in Ibaraki prefecture's Oarai and Nakaminato fishing ports where ankou nabe (monkfish hot pot) is considered one of Japan's great winter dining experiences. The fish's extraordinary liver (ankou no kimo), often called the 'sea foie gras,' is the most prized component — weighing several kilograms and representing the fish's stored energy reserves. Ankou preparation uses the entirety of the fish in an approach called 'ankou no nanamono' (seven-things of ankou): the skin, liver, ovaries (tomo), fins (hire), stomach (mizu-bukuro), gills (era), and flesh are all separated and used. This waste-free utilisation is demonstrative of traditional Japanese ingredient philosophy at its most complete. The distinctive preparation method 'tsurushi-giri' (hanging cut) involves suspending the entire monkfish from a hook and filleting it hanging — the fish's skin is too delicate and its body too gelatinous to be cut efficiently on a board. Ankou nabe broth is prepared from the liver mashed with miso, sake, and dashi — the liver's fat emulsifies into the broth creating extraordinary richness. The gelatinous collagen in ankou skin creates a particularly unctuous broth quality valued for its jiggly, lip-coating texture.

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ServesFour portions
Sourced1of 11 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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1 (whole, 2–3 kg)
Pacific ankou (monkfish/anglerfish)
cold-water; to be broken into nanamono seven components by tsurushi-giri hanging cut
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the broth base
300 g
ankou no kimo (ankou liver)
thoroughly mashed and strained smooth
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
100 ml
sake
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 litre
dashi
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Nanamono components (from the whole fish)
as yielded
ankou skin (kawa)
retained; primary gelatin and broth-richness contributor
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
as yielded
ankou flesh
portioned
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
as yielded
ovaries (tomo)
separated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
as yielded
fins (hire)
separated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
as yielded
stomach (mizu-bukuro)
separated and cleaned
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
as yielded
gills (era)
separated and cleaned
Not yet stocked in British Columbia

Each tap is counted, so the stockist sees the demand Provenance sends them.

II

The Method

1
Suspend the whole ankou from a hook by its jaw — tsurushi-giri (hanging cut). Working from the hanging fish, remove the skin first in sheets, then separate each of the seven components of ankou no nanamono in sequence: liver (kimo), ovaries (tomo), fins (hire), stomach (mizu-bukuro), gills (era), and flesh. The gelatinous body collapses under its own weight on a board; hanging allows clean separation. Each component is set aside individually. The preparation is complete when all seven parts are cleanly divided and nothing is discarded.
2
Mash the ankou liver thoroughly with the miso and sake until a smooth, homogeneous paste is formed. Pass the mixture through a strainer to remove any remaining lumps. This is the broth base. This step is where the dish lives or dies: uneven, chunk-laden liver paste will distribute unevenly through the broth and compromise both texture and flavour throughout the entire pot. The finished paste should be entirely smooth and hold no visible solid pieces.
3
Bring the dashi to a low simmer in the nabe pot. Whisk the strained liver-miso-sake paste gradually into the dashi until fully incorporated and the broth is an even, opaque, amber-brown colour with no streaks.
4
Add the ankou skin first — it is the primary collagen source — then the remaining nanamono components in order of their required cooking time: stomach, gills, fins, flesh, ovaries. Maintain a low simmer throughout. The dish is ready to receive all components when the skin has visibly softened and the broth has taken on a noticeably unctuous, slightly syrupy quality.
5
Simmer the assembled nabe at low heat for a minimum of 30 minutes. Collagen extraction from the skin and cartilage requires sustained, gentle heat. The broth is ready when it coats a spoon and clings to the lip — a lip-coating, jiggly consistency — and the flesh is tender throughout with no resistance when pressed.
6
At the close of the meal, prepare the shime: add cold cooked rice directly to the remaining collagen-rich broth in the pot and cook gently until the rice has absorbed the broth and the mixture reaches the consistency of ojiya (rice porridge). The canonical ending is complete when the porridge is thick, glossy, and carries the full depth of the ankou broth.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Whole cold-water Pacific ankou from Oarai or Nakaminato, Ibaraki prefecture, taken October through March at peak winter fat; liver of several kilograms indicating full energy reserves — the benchmark specimen for ankou nabe.
02
Estate — Cold-water Pacific ankou from other Ibaraki or northern Honshu Pacific ports within the October–March season; liver of good size and deep colour, procured from a port market the day of preparation.
03
Market — Cold-water monkfish from outside Ibaraki but still from cold Pacific waters and within the winter season; liver sound and of sufficient volume to form the broth base, all nanamono components intact.
04
House — Cold-water monkfish available from a reliable fishmonger; skin and liver retained without exception. Warm-water monkfish is an inadequate substitute — the fat content and liver quality differ significantly and the characteristic broth richness will not be achieved.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. The strained liver-miso-sake paste is entirely smooth with no visible lumps or streaks before it enters the dashi.
◇Sight. The broth is a uniform opaque amber-brown after the paste is incorporated — no separation or uneven colour.
◇Touch. After 30 or more minutes of simmering, the broth coats the back of a spoon and clings to the lip with a jiggly, unctuous resistance indicating collagen extraction is complete.
◇Touch. Ankou flesh yields without resistance when pressed — the heat has penetrated all components uniformly.
◇Sight. The final ojiya shime is thick and glossy, the rice fully saturated with the collagen-enriched broth.
◇Where it lives or dies. The liver must be mashed with miso and sake to a completely smooth, strained paste before entering the broth — uneven distribution here cannot be corrected and defines the dish's outcome.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Aramasa No. 6 X-type Junmai Ginjo
Aramasa Shuzo · Yamagata
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Sake
From British Columbia

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The whole pairing
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