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Japanese · Kure, Hiroshima

Japanese Nikujaga: Meat and Potato Stew, Navy Recipe Origin, and Comfort Food Identity

Nikujaga (meat-potato stew) is Japan's most iconic comfort food — a sweet-savoury stew of sliced beef (or pork in Hokkaido) with potato, onion, carrot, and konnyaku simmered in dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. Its origin story is part of Japanese culinary mythology: the dish is attributed to Admiral Togo Heihachiro, who in the 1890s instructed naval cooks to create a Japanese approximation of the beef stew he had eaten in England during naval training — substituting dashi and soy for the wine and beef stock he couldn't replicate. The result was an entirely new dish that became the standard meal of the Japanese Imperial Navy and eventually spread to the homes of sailors' families who learned to cook it at naval base cookery classes. Two cities — Kure in Hiroshima Prefecture and Maizuru in Kyoto Prefecture — both claim to be the birthplace of nikujaga, with the Kure version using beef and the Maizuru version using pork. The debate has been resolved by both cities proudly maintaining their own versions rather than settling the claim. Beyond its history, nikujaga has a specific cultural resonance in Japan: it is associated with nostalgia, home cooking, mothers' cooking, and the specific comfort of the first meal in familiar surroundings after time away. Japanese surveys regularly rank nikujaga as the dish most associated with 'mother's cooking' (okaasan no aji). The technical preparation requires attention to potato texture: Japanese varieties (May Queen being preferred for its waxy, non-crumbling structure) should remain intact, not disintegrate into the sauce.

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ServesFour portions
Sourced2of 10 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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300 g
thinly sliced beef
shabu-shabu style; pork may be substituted in Hokkaido/Kansai tradition
Your own market
600 g
waxy potatoes
May Queen or Dejima preferred; cut into quarters, soaked briefly in water, drained
Origin · FranceLekker · Vancouver →
2 medium
onions
sliced into wedges
Your own market
2 medium
carrots
cut into bite-sized pieces
Your own market
150 g
konnyaku
torn or cut into pieces
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For the broth
700 ml
dashi
prepared; not water alone
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
4 tbsp
mirin
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2 tbsp
sugar
the dish should be noticeably sweeter than standard nimono
Your own market
To finish
80 g
snap peas or snow peas
added 2 minutes before serving for colour and crunch
Not yet stocked in British Columbia

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II

The Method

1
Bring a medium-heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the sliced beef in a single layer and cook briefly — thin shabu-shabu-cut slices require only seconds per side. Remove from the pot as soon as the meat loses its raw colour and any rendered fat begins to glisten. Overcooking at this stage toughens the meat irreversibly.
2
In the same pot, combine the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. The broth should taste distinctly sweet-savoury — sweeter than a standard nimono. Adjust sugar if the sweetness is not pronounced.
From the canon — Nimono — simmered things — covers the largest category of everyday Japanese cooking: vegetables, tofu, fish, and chicken gently simmered in a flavoured dashi… Nimono (Simmered Dishes) →
3
Add the onion wedges and carrots to the simmering broth. Cook until the onions begin to soften and turn translucent at their edges, and the carrots show the first signs of yielding when pressed with a spoon.
4
Add the drained potato quarters and the konnyaku. Partially cover and simmer until the potatoes are fully tender when pierced — they must hold their shape as distinct pieces and must not dissolve into the broth. This is where the dish lives or dies: a floury potato or an overlong simmer produces mash in broth rather than nikujaga. Waxy varieties at correct doneness will yield cleanly to a skewer while retaining their form.
5
Return the seared beef to the pot, submerging it briefly in the broth to warm through and allow its flavour to integrate. The broth will deepen in colour as the soy and meat juices combine. Do not simmer the meat further.
6
Add the snap peas or snow peas in the final 2 minutes of cooking. They are done when their colour intensifies to a bright, clear green and they retain a firm snap between the fingers.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Wagyu shabu-shabu beef; hand-pulled ichiban dashi from premium katsuobushi and true kombu; May Queen potatoes sourced in season; hon-mirin (genuine brewed mirin, not mirin-style condiment).
02
Estate — Good-quality thinly sliced beef from a Japanese butcher or Korean market; dashi made from commercial katsuobushi and dried kombu; May Queen or Dejima potatoes; quality soy sauce.
03
Market — Supermarket thinly sliced beef (hot-pot cut); dashi from a reliable instant dashi packet (hondashi); any waxy potato (Charlotte, Nicola); standard soy sauce and mirin.
04
House — Any thinly sliced pork shoulder or beef stir-fry cut; water with a dashi stock cube; waxy potatoes only — do not substitute floury varieties at any rung.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. Potato quarters sit intact in the broth with clearly defined edges — no crumbling or clouding of the liquid from dissolved starch.
◇Touch. A skewer passes through a potato piece with gentle, even resistance — yielding but not collapsing.
◇Smell. The broth carries a warm, sweet-savoury depth — soy and mirin dominant, with the quiet, marine undertone of dashi beneath.
◇Sight. Snow peas or snap peas hold a bright, saturated green — dull or yellowed peas have been held too long.
◇Where it lives or dies. The potato must hold its shape as distinct, yielding pieces — a dissolving, floury potato collapses the dish's identity from stew to mash.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Toko Premium Aged Imo Shochu 40°
Nishi Shuzo · Kagoshima Shochu
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Shochu
From British Columbia

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Without alcohol

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The whole pairing
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Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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