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Japanese · Nagasaki

Kakuni Braised Pork Belly Soy Cube

Kakuni (角煮, 'square simmered') is braised pork belly cut into large cubes (typically 5–7cm square) and slow-simmered in a deeply savoury-sweet combination of soy sauce, sake, mirin, and sugar until the collagen in the skin and fat melts into a gelatinous, lacquered coating and the meat becomes tender enough to cut with a spoon. The dish is emblematic of the Japanese approach to fatty pork: rather than rendering the fat out (as in Western pork preparations), Japanese kakuni technique preserves and celebrates the belly's fat layers — making them unctuously soft, deeply flavoured, and dramatically different in texture from raw fat. The initial preparation involves blanching the pork belly first in water with aromatics (negi, ginger) to remove impurities, then a long, slow simmer — 1.5–2 hours minimum — in the braising liquid. Kakuni is closely associated with Nagasaki's shippoku cuisine, which blended Chinese and Japanese cooking through the Nagasaki trading port, and with Okinawan rafute (a similar pork belly preparation that uses awamori in place of sake and kurozato in place of sugar). The dish is also a classic ramen topping — chashu — in its rolled form.

ServesFour portions
Total2 hours 30 minutes (plus overnight refrigeration recommended)
Sourced2of 9 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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1.2 kg
pork belly
skin on, cut into 5–7 cm square cubes
Your own market
For the blanch
1 stalk
negi (Japanese long onion)
cut into sections
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
30 g
fresh ginger
sliced
2 litres
water
Your own market
For the braise
150 ml
sake
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
100 ml
mirin
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
30 g
sugar
Your own market
500 ml
water
or enough to just cover the pork
Your own market

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II

The Method

1
Place the pork belly cubes skin-side down in a wide pot with the negi, ginger, and 2 litres of cold water. Bring to the boil, then blanch at a steady boil for 10 minutes. Drain and discard the blanching liquid and aromatics. Rinse each cube under cold running water, removing any grey scum. The surface of the meat should be clean and the water running off it clear.
2
Return the pork to a clean, heavy pot just wide enough to hold the cubes in a single layer. Add the sake, mirin, soy sauce, sugar, and enough water to just cover. Bring to a bare simmer over medium heat, then immediately reduce to the lowest possible heat. A single lazy bubble rising every few seconds at the surface is correct. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: maintain this gentle simmer without allowing the liquid to boil. A rolling boil will emulsify the fat into the braising liquid, producing a greasy, murky result, and will tighten the meat to an unacceptable toughness. Hold this simmer for a minimum of 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours.
3
Test the pork at the 1 hour 30 minute mark by pressing a cube gently with a finger or the back of a spoon. The cube should yield with almost no resistance, the fat layer feeling as soft as set jelly. If it offers firmness, continue simmering and test every 15 minutes.
4
Remove the pork cubes carefully and set aside. Raise the heat under the braising liquid to medium-high and reduce until the liquid thickens noticeably, stirring occasionally. When the liquid coats the back of a spoon and falls from it in slow, heavy drops rather than a stream — and carries a deep mahogany colour with a visible gloss — it has reduced sufficiently.
5
Return the pork cubes to the reduced liquid over low heat. Turn each cube repeatedly to coat it in the lacquer. The surface of each cube should take on a deep, glossy, mahogany sheen. When the coating clings to the skin and fat without pooling at the base of the pot, the dish is ready to serve.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Heritage-breed pork belly (Berkshire, Kurobuta) with thick, even fat and skin layers; aged sake and artisanal tamari-style soy sauce; kurozato or kokuto for the rafute register.
02
Estate — Well-sourced free-range pork belly with an even fat-to-meat ratio; good-quality hon mirin (not mirin-style condiment); decent drinkable sake.
03
Market — Standard supermarket pork belly, skin on; commercial mirin; everyday Japanese soy sauce such as Kikkoman. Reliable results if technique is observed.
04
House — Any skin-on pork belly; cooking sake; light soy sauce if dark is unavailable. The collagen-rich cut compensates for ingredient modesty, though the final lacquer will be paler and less complex.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. Blanching water runs clear when the cubes are rinsed — no further grey scum.
◇Sight. A single lazy bubble rising every few seconds confirms the correct simmer temperature throughout braising.
◇Touch. The fat layer of a braised cube yields to gentle finger pressure with no resistance, feeling as soft as set jelly.
◇Sight. The reduced braising liquid coats the back of a spoon in slow, heavy drops and shows a deep mahogany gloss.
◇Sight. Each cube's skin and fat layer carries a visible, even lacquer that does not pool at the base of the pot.
◇Where it lives or dies. The braise must be held at the lowest possible simmer throughout — never a boil — or the fat emulsifies into the liquid and the meat toughens beyond recovery.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Kiku-Masamune Kimoto Junmai
Kiku-Masamune Sake Brewing · Nada
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Sake
From British Columbia

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Without alcohol

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The whole pairing
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Sourced through Provenance

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