II
The Method
1
Press the firm tofu under a weighted flat surface for at least 20 minutes — longer if time permits. The tofu is ready when a cloth or paper pressed against it shows no further moisture transfer; any residual water will steam the tofu in the pan rather than allow it to brown.
2
Prepare the kombu dashi: place kombu in cold water, bring slowly to just below a simmer over low heat, and remove the kombu before the water boils. Hold the dashi warm. The surface should show fine, lazy threads rising from the kombu — not a rolling boil, which makes dashi bitter.
3
Prepare all vegetables in sakugiri cuts — angled, irregular, non-uniform pieces. This is not imprecision; it is the deliberate aesthetic of
shojin ryori, producing varied textures. Keep gobo submerged in cold water until needed to prevent discolouration.
4
Heat Japanese sesame oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Crumble the pressed tofu directly into the oil in coarse, uneven pieces. Sauté, turning occasionally, until the tofu is fragrant and shows patches of light gold on its surface. The smell shifts from raw soy to a warm, nutty depth — this is the aromatic foundation the dish requires.
5
This is where the dish lives or dies: add the gobo, daikon, carrot, and satoimo to the pan and sauté together with the tofu in the sesame oil residue over medium to medium-high heat. The vegetables must soften at their outer edges and absorb the oil-tofu aromatics before any liquid enters the pot. Do not add dashi yet. The vegetables are ready when the pan smells of earth, sesame, and sweet root sugar — not of raw starch.
6
Add the konnyaku pieces and continue to sauté briefly, turning to coat in the oil-tofu residue. Konnyaku absorbs flavour only under heat and fat; add it too early and it prevents vegetable browning, too late and it remains bland.
7
Pour in the warm kombu dashi and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook until all root vegetables yield cleanly when pierced — satoimo and gobo require the most time. Test by pressing a piece of taro or burdock against the side of the pot with a spoon; it should give with light pressure, not resist.
8
Season according to region: for the Kanto style, add salt and light soy sauce; for the Kansai style, dissolve miso in a ladleful of hot broth and stir it in off the heat. Taste the broth — it must be more assertive than a clear soup; the oil component demands it. Adjust and serve immediately, with rice and a pickled vegetable.