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Italian · Calabria

Lagane e Ceci Calabresi con Peperoncino Fresco

Lagane e ceci is perhaps the oldest pasta dish in Italy — the Romans documented lagane (wide flat strips of dough) with legumes. In Calabria the lagane are rough-cut, wide, thick semolina strips with no egg, cooked directly in the chickpea broth until the pasta starch thickens the whole pot into a single, spoonable dish — not a soup with pasta floating in it, but an integrated pasta-legume unity. Fresh chilli is the defining Calabrian flavour signal.

ServesFour portions
Sourced1of 10 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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For the chickpeas
300 g
dried chickpeas
soaked overnight in cold water
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2
garlic cloves
whole, unpeeled
Your own market
1
sprig of rosemary
fresh
Your own market
2
fresh red chillies
whole, added early to the pot
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
60 ml
extra-virgin olive oil
plus more raw at the table
Your own market
For the lagane
300 g
semolina (semola rimacinata di grano duro)
150 ml
water
lukewarm
Your own market
1 tsp
fine sea salt
Your own market
To finish
1 pinch
dried oregano
at the table
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 tsp
fine sea salt
to season the pot
Your own market

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II

The Method

1
Drain the soaked chickpeas and place them in a deep, heavy pot with the garlic, rosemary sprig, and the fresh chillies. Cover generously with cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until the chickpeas are completely tender and their skins yield without resistance — press one between thumb and forefinger; it must offer no hard core.
2
While the chickpeas cook, make the lagane. Mound the semolina on a work surface, add the salt, and work in the lukewarm water gradually, kneading until the dough is firm, smooth, and no longer sticky — it will be stiffer than an egg dough. Rest it, covered, for 30 minutes. Roll to a thickness of roughly 3 mm, then cut into strips approximately 2 cm wide and 10 cm long. Irregular edges are correct.
3
Remove the rosemary sprig from the chickpea pot. Discard it. Remove and crush several chickpeas against the side of the pot with a spoon to begin thickening the broth; the remainder stay whole. Add the olive oil to the pot. Assess the liquid level: there should be enough broth to cook the lagane, but not so much that the dish will remain a clear soup. Ladle off excess if necessary. This calibration of liquid is where the dish lives or dies — too much water and the pasta floats in thin broth; too little and the lagane will scorch before they cook through.
4
Bring the chickpea pot to an active simmer and add the lagane directly into the broth. Stir frequently to prevent the strips from clumping. Cook until the lagane are tender throughout and the released starch has drawn the broth into a thick, cohesive consistency — not a soup, not a dry pasta, but a single spoonable mass that holds its shape briefly in the ladle before settling.
5
Taste and adjust salt. Ladle into wide bowls. Finish each portion with a thread of raw extra-virgin olive oil and a pinch of dried oregano. Serve immediately — the dish continues to thicken as it sits.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Dried chickpeas from a named Calabrian or southern-Italian provenance (Cicerale, Pollino), milled semola rimacinata from a single-variety hard wheat, and a cold-pressed Calabrian extra-virgin oil used both in the pot and raw at the table.
02
Estate — Dried chickpeas sourced from a known Italian producer, good-quality semola rimacinata di grano duro, and a reliable DOP southern Italian olive oil.
03
Market — Any dried chickpeas (soaked overnight without exception), standard semola rimacinata, and a clean extra-virgin olive oil. The dish remains honest at this level provided the chickpeas are cooked from scratch.
04
House — The one substitution the dish cannot absorb is canned chickpeas: their braising liquid — the collagen-rich body of the pot — does not exist. Every other economy is negotiable; this one is not.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. A whole chickpea pressed between thumb and forefinger collapses to a smooth paste with no hard or granular centre.
◇Sight. Before the lagane are added, the broth level sits just above the chickpeas — generous enough to cook the pasta, reduced enough to become thick, not watery, once the starch is released.
◇Sight. The finished pot holds a brief, slow shape when spooned — it is neither a liquid soup nor a dry stew, but a single integrated mass.
◇Smell. The rosemary and chilli scent softens from sharp and bright to rounded and earthy as the chickpeas reach full tenderness.
◇Where it lives or dies. The liquid level must be calibrated before the lagane enter the pot: enough broth to cook the pasta through, reduced closely enough that the escaping starch can bind everything into one spoonable unity rather than a thin soup.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino
Gonzalez Byass · Jerez DO
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Fortified wine
From British Columbia

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Without alcohol

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The whole pairing
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Sourced through Provenance

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