P
American · United States
Mac and Cheese
American macaroni and cheese has two traditions: the baked, bechamel-based version (toasted breadcrumb crust, firm interior) and the stovetop version (molten, saucy, immediate). Both are correct. The stovetop version — using sodium citrate or cream cheese as the emulsifier to prevent the sauce from breaking — produces a glossy, pourable cheese sauce that coats every piece of pasta. This is the version that matters at the molecular level: the emulsification is the technique.
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I
The Market List
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400g
elbow pasta
dried
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
60g
unsalted butter
Your own market
40g
all-purpose flour
Your own market
500ml
whole milk
warm
Your own market
200g
sharp cheddar
aged 24 months, grated
Your own market
100g
Gruyère DOP
grated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 tsp
Dijon mustard
Your own market
1/4 tsp
cayenne pepper
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1/4 tsp
freshly grated nutmeg
Your own market
1 tsp
fine sea salt
Your own market
1/2 tsp
Tellicherry black pepper
Your own market
50g
panko breadcrumbs
Your own market
25g
Parmigiano Reggiano DOP
grated
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II
The Method
1
Bring large pot of salted water to boil; add pasta and cook to al dente; drain and set aside.
2
Melt butter over medium heat; whisk in flour, stirring constantly for 1 minute (do not brown).
3
Slowly add warm milk while whisking continuously until roux fully incorporates and sauce thickens, 3–4 minutes.
4
Remove from heat; stir in cheddar, Gruyère, mustard, cayenne, nutmeg, salt, and pepper until cheeses melt completely.
5
Fold cooked pasta into sauce; transfer to buttered gratin dish.
6
Combine panko and Parmigiano; sprinkle evenly over top.
7
Bake at 200°C for 12–15 minutes until breadcrumb topping is golden and sauce bubbles at edges.
8
Rest 3 minutes before serving.
IV
Sensory Tests
◇Where it lives or dies. The moment where mac and cheese lives or dies is the cheese addition temperature — when making the sauce, remove the pan from heat entirely before adding the cheese. Not 'reduce to low.' Off heat. The residual heat from the milk and pan is sufficient to melt the cheese. Adding cheese to a hot liquid on an active burner causes the proteins to seize and the sauce to break irreparably. Off heat, add cheese, whisk, taste, add pasta.
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