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French · Loire Valley

Noisettes de Porc aux Pruneaux de Tours

Noisettes de porc aux pruneaux is the Loire Valley’s most celebrated pork dish — a preparation that marries the region’s premium pork with its dried plum tradition (pruneaux de Tours, distinct from Agen, made from the Perdrigon violet plum) in a cream-and-white-wine sauce of remarkable elegance. The dish crystallizes the Loire’s culinary philosophy: fruit with meat, cream without heaviness, and wine as a sauce foundation rather than merely a beverage. Noisettes (thick, boneless pork loin medallions, 3cm thick, tied into rounds) are seasoned and seared in butter over high heat for 2 minutes per side until golden. The pork is removed and the pan deglazed with 150ml dry Vouvray. The pruneaux (12-16, soaked for 2 hours in warm Vouvray until plump) and their soaking wine are added to the pan with a bouquet garni and simmered for 5 minutes. The pork returns, the pan is covered, and everything braises gently for 12-15 minutes at 160°C until the pork reaches 63°C internal. The pork and prunes are plated; the braising liquid is reduced by half, then 200ml crème fraîche is stirred in and reduced to sauce consistency — a glossy, ivory-gold sauce with visible prune pieces. A few drops of red currant jelly stirred into the finished sauce add a subtle sweetness and gloss. The dish represents a lineage stretching back to medieval French cuisine, when dried fruit and meat combinations were standard. The Loire has preserved this tradition while the rest of France abandoned it, and this dish is the reason.

‹Swipe for the next dish›
ServesFour portions
Total2 hours 45 minutes (including prune soaking)
Sourced0of 10 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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8
pork loin noisettes
cut 3 cm thick, boneless, tied into rounds
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
12–16
pruneaux de Tours
Perdrigon violet variety; soaked 2 hours in warm Vouvray until plump
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
150 ml
dry Vouvray (sec or demi-sec)
for deglazing
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
200 ml
dry Vouvray (sec or demi-sec)
warm, for soaking the prunes
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
200 ml
crème fraîche
full-fat, at room temperature
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
30 g
unsalted butter
Your own market
1 tsp
redcurrant jelly
stirred into the finished sauce
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1
bouquet garni
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 tsp
fine sea salt
Your own market
1 tsp
black pepper
freshly ground
Your own market
II

The Method

1
Place the pruneaux de Tours in a bowl. Pour over 200 ml of warm Vouvray and leave to soak for 2 hours. The prunes are ready when they are fully plump and yielding to gentle pressure; prunes that remain firm will not integrate with the sauce.
2
Season the noisettes on both sides with salt and freshly ground pepper. Melt the butter in a heavy sauté pan over high heat. When the foam subsides and the butter colours faintly, add the noisettes and sear for 2 minutes per side. The surface must be deep golden and crusted; a pale sear will not build the fond needed for the sauce. Remove the pork and set aside.
3
Pour 150 ml of dry Vouvray into the hot pan and scrape up all the caramelised deposits. Add the soaked prunes and their soaking wine, then the bouquet garni. Simmer for 5 minutes; the liquid should smell of wine and fruit with no raw-alcohol edge.
4
Return the noisettes to the pan, cover, and braise gently at 160 °C for 12–15 minutes. This is where the dish lives or dies: the pork must reach an internal temperature of 63 °C and no more — at that point the meat is just set, pale rose at the centre, and still moist; beyond it the loin tightens and the dish is lost.
5
Lift the pork and prunes onto a warmed serving dish and keep warm, loosely covered. Discard the bouquet garni. Raise the heat and reduce the braising liquid by half; the surface will show a steady, even boil and the liquid will take on a concentrated amber colour.
From the canon — Braising is the transformation of tough, collagen-rich cuts of meat into tender, deeply flavoured preparations through prolonged cooking in a small amount of… Braising (Braiser) →
6
Lower the heat. Stir in the crème fraîche and reduce to a sauce consistency — the sauce should coat a spoon lightly and fall in a slow, unbroken ribbon; it must not paste. Stir in the redcurrant jelly and adjust seasoning. The finished sauce is glossy and ivory-gold.
7
Spoon the sauce and prunes over the noisettes and serve at once. The sauce should reach the table hot and fluid, not setting on the plate.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Pruneaux de Tours from a named Perdrigon violet producer; Vouvray sec from a single domaine; crème fraîche from a Norman or Tourangelle dairy; pork from a heritage breed raised on grain.
02
Estate — Labelled pruneaux de Tours (Perdrigon variety confirmed); a reliable Vouvray sec or demi-sec; full-fat commercial crème fraîche; butcher-tied pork loin noisettes.
03
Market — French dried prunes of good plumpness (Agen acceptable with a squeeze of lemon added to the sauce); any dry, unoaked Loire white wine; crème fraîche from a supermarket; noisettes cut and tied to order.
04
House — Any plump dried prune; a clean, dry white wine; soured cream in place of crème fraîche (sauce will be thinner and sharper); pork loin steaks trimmed and tied at home.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. Soaked prunes yield completely under light finger pressure with no firm core remaining.
◇Sight. Seared noisettes carry a deep golden crust on both faces before braising begins.
◇Touch. A probe thermometer reads 63 °C at the centre of the thickest noisette; the meat feels just firm, not rigid.
◇Sight. The finished sauce falls from a spoon in a slow, unbroken ribbon and is glossy and ivory-gold, not opaque or paste-like.
◇Where it lives or dies. The pork must be removed from heat at exactly 63 °C internal — the loin has no fat reserves to carry it through overcooking, and a degree beyond that threshold dries the meat irrecoverably.
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VI

What to Pour

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Clase Azul Reposado
Clase Azul Spirits · Jalisco — Tequila
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Agave spirit
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