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French

Pain Poilâne

The pain Poilâne, while bearing the name of the family that elevated it to global fame, represents the template for the grand miche — the large (approximately 1.9kg), round, wood-fired sourdough loaf that has become synonymous with the highest expression of French artisan breadmaking. Lionel Poilâne, working from his bakery on the Rue du Cherche-Midi in Paris from the 1970s until his death in 2002, championed this bread at a time when France was awash in industrially produced white baguettes, arguing that the large miche represented a superior tradition: better flavour from extended sourdough fermentation, better nutrition from stone-milled semi-wholemeal flour, better keeping quality from the massive format and thick crust. The flour is stone-milled Type 80 (farine de meule), ground between granite millstones that preserve the germ and fine bran particles while removing the coarsest bran — producing flour with more flavour, colour, and nutritional value than roller-milled white flour. Hydration is approximately 68-70%. The levain is maintained as a stiff starter (50-60% hydration), refreshed with the same stone-milled flour. Bulk fermentation is long (3-5 hours at ambient temperature with folds). The dough is shaped into a large boule, placed in a large banneton, and proofed for 2-3 hours. The signature ‘P’ (for Poilâne) is scored into the surface with a lame — though any artisan baker would substitute their own mark. Baking occurs in a wood-fired oven (four à bois) whose retained heat (falling from 280°C to 220°C over the 90-minute bake) produces the supremely thick, caramelised crust and the fully baked, moist interior. The large format is not incidental: the ratio of crust to crumb in a 1.9kg boule is radically different from a 350g baguette, producing a bread where the dense, flavourful crust constitutes a smaller proportion but provides an insulating shell that keeps the crumb moist for 7-10 days. The crumb is dense (small, evenly distributed alveoli), moist, and slightly tangy, with complex wheaty, nutty, almost honey-like notes from the stone-milled flour and extended fermentation.

‹Swipe for the next dish›
ServesOne miche of approximately 1.9 kg
Total8–12 hours (excluding levain maintenance)
Sourced0of 6 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

For the levain build
200 g
stone-milled Type 80 flour (farine de meule)
ground between granite millstones
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
100–120 ml
water
to maintain 50–60% hydration stiff starter
Your own market
For the dough
800 g
stone-milled Type 80 flour (farine de meule)
sourced from a mill, not roller-milled
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
200 g
active stiff levain
refreshed with the same stone-milled flour
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
544–560 ml
water
68–70% hydration on total flour weight
Your own market
18 g
fine sea salt
approximately 2% of flour weight
Your own market
II

The Method

1
Refresh the stiff levain with stone-milled Type 80 flour and water to a hydration of 50–60%. Leave at ambient temperature until it has peaked: it rises, domes at the crown, and just begins to recede at the centre.
2
Combine the flour, water, and active levain. Mix until no dry flour remains. Rest 20–30 minutes (autolyse), then incorporate the salt. The dough is rough and moderately stiff, with a hydration of 68–70%; it should clear the sides of the bowl under hand pressure but feel substantial, not slack.
3
Bulk-ferment at ambient temperature for 3–5 hours, performing a series of folds in the first 2 hours. The dough is ready when it has increased appreciably in volume, feels aerated and extensible under the hand, and the surface shows a slight dome with a few visible bubbles at the edges.
4
Shape into a large boule with firm surface tension. Place seam-side up in a well-floured large banneton. Proof for 2–3 hours at ambient temperature. The loaf is ready to bake when a finger-poke to the floured surface leaves an indent that springs back slowly and only partially — not snapping back immediately, not collapsing.
5
This step decides the dish. Preheat a Dutch oven (cocotte) in the oven at maximum heat (equivalent to the wood-fired four à bois falling from 280 °C). Turn the proved miche onto a sheet of parchment, score the surface with a lame — a single deep cross or the baker's own mark — then lower into the preheated cocotte. Bake covered for 30 minutes: the trapped steam must produce a pronounced, resonant crack-and-bloom at the score, audible when the lid is lifted. If the bloom is absent or the surface appears pale and smooth, the oven was insufficiently hot. Uncover and continue baking for a further 45–60 minutes (75–90 minutes total) until the crust is a deep mahogany-brown and the interior temperature reaches 96–98 °C. A 1.9 kg loaf under-baked is both structurally and gastronomically failed: the crust, which is both the flavour engine and the preservation mechanism, must be thick and fully caramelised.
6
Transfer to a wire rack. Leave to cool completely for 4–6 hours before cutting. The internal structure is still setting during this period; slicing early collapses the crumb. The loaf is ready when the base, tapped firmly with the knuckle, returns a hollow, resonant sound throughout.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Stone-milled Type 80 flour from a named artisan mill, a mature levain of several years, and baking in a wood-fired oven (four à bois) with retained falling heat from 280 °C to 220 °C over 90 minutes.
02
Estate — Stone-milled Type 80 flour sourced directly from a mill (not a supermarket), a vigorous stiff levain maintained on the same flour, baked in a heavy cast-iron cocotte at maximum domestic oven temperature.
03
Market — Best-available stone-milled flour (T80 or equivalent semi-wholemeal), a reliable stiff levain, full bulk fermentation and proof times observed, Dutch oven method.
04
House — Roller-milled wholemeal flour as a partial substitute; commercially produced liquid sourdough starter; Dutch oven method. The loaf will lack the nutty, wheaty complexity and dense-moist crumb character that the stone-milled grain and stiff levain supply.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. Levain has peaked: domed surface just beginning to recede at the centre, with a web of small bubbles visible through the jar.
◇Touch. Bulk fermentation complete: dough aerated and extensible, surface domed with fine bubbles at the perimeter, increased appreciably in volume.
◇Touch. Proof complete: a finger-poke to the floured surface leaves an indent that springs back slowly and only partially.
◇Sound. Bake complete: the base of the cooled miche, struck firmly with the knuckle, returns a hollow, resonant sound throughout — dense or dull suggests under-baking.
◇Sight. Crust is deep mahogany-brown at the score and across the crown; no pale or matt patches remain on the upper surface after uncovering.
◇Where it lives or dies. The bake in a sufficiently preheated vessel — the crust must bloom, caramelise to deep mahogany, and develop fully over 75–90 minutes, for it is at once the flavour engine, the structural shell, and the preservation mechanism that keeps the crumb moist for 7–10 days.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Buffalo Trace Distillery · Kentucky Bourbon Country
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Whisky
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The whole pairing
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