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Italian · Assemini, Cagliari, Sardinia

Panada di Agnello — Sardinian Lamb and Pea Pie

Panada (from the Sard 'panada') is the great Sardinian enclosed pie, most traditionally from Assemini (Cagliari province) and distinguished from the impanada by its size (larger, family-format) and its specific filling of raw lamb or eel layered with dried peas (piselli secchi, soaked overnight), onion, tomatoes, and saffron, all raw when they go into the raw pastry case. The entire pie is assembled raw — filling ingredients go in uncooked — and the long baking (1.5-2 hours) cooks everything simultaneously inside the sealed pastry. The pastry case is traditionally lard-enriched semolina dough.

ServesSix to eight portions
Total2 hours 30 minutes (plus overnight soak)
Sourced2of 12 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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For the semolina pastry
500 g
fine semolina (semolino rimacinato)
150 g
lard
cold, cubed
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 tsp
fine salt
Your own market
150 ml
water
lukewarm
Your own market
For the filling
800 g
lamb shoulder or leg
bone-in, cut into 4 cm pieces
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
300 g
dried peas (piselli secchi)
soaked overnight in cold water, drained
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 large
onion
thinly sliced
Your own market
3 medium
ripe tomatoes
peeled, roughly chopped
1 generous pinch
saffron
dissolved in 2 tbsp warm water
Your own market
1 tsp
fine salt
or to taste
Your own market
1 tsp
black pepper
freshly ground
Your own market
1 tsp
dried parsley
Your own market

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II

The Method

1
The evening before, cover the dried peas generously with cold water and leave them to soak overnight at room temperature. They are ready when each pea has swollen to roughly twice its dry volume and the skin yields without resistance under a thumbnail.
2
Make the pastry. Combine the semolina and salt in a wide bowl. Rub in the cold lard with the fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with no large pieces of fat visible. Add the lukewarm water a little at a time, working the dough until it coheres into a firm, smooth mass that does not crack at the edges when pressed. Wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
3
Heat the oven to 170 °C. Divide the rested dough roughly two-thirds to one-third. On a lightly floured surface, roll the larger piece to a disc approximately 5 mm thick and large enough to line a 24–26 cm round, deep-sided baking tin with an overhang of 2 cm all around. Lay the disc into the tin, pressing it firmly into the base and sides without tearing.
4
This is where the dish lives or dies: the filling must go in entirely raw. Layer the drained soaked peas across the base of the pastry case. Distribute the raw lamb pieces evenly over the peas, including all bone-in pieces — the collagen from the bone will enrich the interior liquid as it bakes. Scatter over the sliced onion and the peeled, chopped tomatoes. Spoon the saffron water across the surface. Season generously and evenly with the salt, black pepper, and dried parsley. Do not add any further liquid; the raw lamb will release its own juices during baking, which will cook the peas and form the sauce inside the sealed pie. No pre-cooking, no broth.
5
Roll the remaining dough to a disc of the same thickness to form the lid. Lay it over the filling. Press the lid and the overhanging base dough firmly together, then fold and crimp the edge inward to create a tight seal around the entire circumference. The seal must be continuous — no gaps through which steam can escape during baking.
6
Place the pie on the middle shelf of the 170 °C oven. Bake for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, without opening the oven door during baking — the steam inside is cooking the filling and any premature opening causes an immediate temperature drop inside the sealed case. The pie is ready when the pastry is an even, deep gold across its entire surface and a thin knife or skewer inserted through the lid at the centre of the pie meets no resistance from the filling below.
7
Remove the pie from the oven and allow it to rest in the tin for 10 minutes before carrying it to the table whole. Open it at table: the crust will release a burst of steam carrying the scent of lamb, saffron, and sweet cooked peas. Serve in wedges, ensuring each portion includes pastry, lamb, and peas with their accumulated juices.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Bone-in Sarda breed lamb shoulder from a named Sardinian producer; Campidano saffron (among the most prized in Italy); hand-dried piselli secchi from the island; lard rendered from free-range Sarda pig.
02
Estate — Bone-in lamb shoulder or leg from a regional producer of known breed; good-quality Spanish or Abruzzese saffron threads (not powder); Italian dried peas; commercial lard of clean, neutral flavour.
03
Market — Bone-in lamb shoulder from a trusted butcher; saffron from a reliable supermarket source; any good dried split or whole peas soaked overnight; standard lard.
04
House — Diced lamb leg (bone-out acceptable but less flavourful); saffron powder dissolved in water; green split peas soaked overnight; butter or a neutral fat substituted for lard in the pastry — the crust will be less traditional in character.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. Soaked peas yield without resistance under a thumbnail before they go into the pie.
◇Touch. The pastry dough is firm, smooth, and cohesive, with no cracks at the edges when pressed.
◇Sight. The baked crust is an even, deep gold across its entire upper surface.
◇Touch. A thin skewer inserted through the lid at the centre meets no resistance in the filling below.
◇Smell. Opening the pie at table releases a burst of steam perfumed with lamb fat and saffron.
◇Where it lives or dies. The filling must be assembled entirely raw — lamb, soaked peas, onion, tomato, and saffron water layered into the raw pastry case without any pre-cooking or added liquid, so that the sealed bake transforms the lamb's own juices into the sauce that cooks the peas from within.
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VI

What to Pour

A robust, lightly tannic Sardinian red — Cannonau di Sardegna in a structured, unfruited style — carries enough body to meet the lamb fat and saffron without overriding the delicacy of the peas; a dry Vermentino di Sardegna suits those who prefer white wine with the pie's savour.

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Sourced through Provenance

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