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Italian · Altamura, Bari, Puglia

Pane di Altamura DOP: Lievitazione e Cottura al Forno a Legna

Pane di Altamura DOP is the defining hard wheat bread of the Mediterranean: made exclusively from semolina rimacinata di grano duro (durum wheat fine-ground), water, sea salt, and natural sourdough starter, shaped into the traditional forms (cappiello di Puglia or skuanete), and baked in a wood-fired stone oven at 250°C. The crust achieves an extraordinary golden colour and shattering crunch; the interior crumb is dense, golden-yellow, and stays fresh for 5–7 days. The high protein content of Altamura durum wheat is the foundation.

ServesTwo loaves (cappiello form, approximately 900 g each)
TotalApproximately 16 hours (including starter refresh and fermentation)
Sourced0of 4 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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1 kg
Semolina rimacinata di grano duro
fine-ground durum wheat semolina; no substitution
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
620 ml
Water
at room temperature
Your own market
200 g
Natural sourdough starter
refreshed 12 hours before mixing; active and fragrant
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
18 g
Sea salt
Your own market
II

The Method

1
Refresh the natural sourdough starter 12 hours before mixing. It is ready when it is visibly active — domed, aerated, and fragrant with a mild lactic acidity.
2
Combine the semolina rimacinata with 580 ml of the water and the active starter. Mix until a shaggy mass forms; the durum resists absorption initially. Add the sea salt dissolved in the remaining 40 ml of water and incorporate fully. The dough will be stiff — hydration is 60–65% by design. The dough is ready when it holds together in a rough, dense mass.
3
Perform three folds over a period of two hours, at approximately 40-minute intervals. At each fold, the dough becomes progressively smoother and more cohesive. After the final fold, the surface should feel taut and spring back slowly when pressed.
4
Divide the dough into two equal pieces. Shape each into the cappiello di Puglia form — a round base with a folded-over crest — or the skuanete form. This shaping step is where the bread lives or dies: the tension built into the cappiello form is the structure that will hold the dense crumb and support the crust through a high-temperature bake; slack or poorly sealed shaping will cause the loaf to spread and the crust to crack unevenly.
5
Place the shaped loaves on a floured surface or linen couche and allow to proof for 1.5 hours at room temperature. The loaves are ready when they have risen perceptibly and the surface, when pressed lightly with a fingertip, shows a slow, partial return — not an immediate spring-back, and not a permanent indentation.
6
Heat the wood-fired stone oven to 250°C. Load the loaves onto the stone. Introduce steam during the first 15 minutes — by closing the oven door immediately after loading, or by the wood-fired oven's own retained moisture — to allow the crust to remain extensible while the crumb sets. After 15 minutes the surface should be set and beginning to colour.
7
Continue baking for a total of 45–50 minutes. The crust must reach a deeply golden colour throughout, with no pale patches. To confirm the crust is fully set, remove the loaf and knock the bottom firmly: it should sound hollow and resonant. A dull thud indicates the interior is not yet dry. Return to the oven if necessary.
8
Transfer the loaves to a wire rack and cool completely — a minimum of 2 hours — before cutting. Use a serrated knife held at an angle; the shattering crust requires controlled, steady pressure. The bread improves from day two through day four as the crumb continues to set.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Semolina rimacinata milled from certified Altamura-zone durum wheat (Senatore Cappelli or equivalent heritage variety); starter maintained over several years; baked on the floor of a wood-fired stone oven.
02
Estate — High-protein southern Italian semolina rimacinata (minimum 13% protein); mature, well-maintained natural starter refreshed to schedule; domestic oven with a preheated baking stone at maximum temperature.
03
Market — Good-quality semolina rimacinata widely available in Italian delicatessens or specialist grocers; active natural starter from a reputable source; baking steel in a conventional oven.
04
House — Any fine-ground durum semolina; natural starter at minimum 12 hours from last refresh; standard oven tray — the crust will be less shattering and the crumb slightly less golden, but the character of the bread remains.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Smell. Starter is active and fragrant with mild lactic acidity before mixing begins.
◇Touch. After three folds, the dough surface is taut and smooth, springing back slowly when pressed.
◇Touch. After proofing, a fingertip impression returns slowly and only partially — neither immediate rebound nor permanent indent.
◇Sight. At the end of baking, the crust is a deep, even golden colour with no pale patches.
◇Sound. A firm knock on the base of the baked loaf returns a hollow, resonant sound, confirming the crust is fully set and the interior is dry.
◇Where it lives or dies. The cappiello shaping must build sufficient surface tension to hold the dense durum crumb and sustain structural integrity through a 250°C bake — slack or unsealed shaping produces a spread loaf with an uneven, compromised crust.
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VI

What to Pour

A structured, mineral southern Italian red — Primitivo di Manduria or Aglianico — whose tannin and dark fruit meet the bread's dense, assertive crumb; or, at table, the bread's natural pairing is extra-virgin olive oil from the Murge plateau, in which case a dry, oxidative Puglian rosato serves as the pour.

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